Between _Tancarville_ and _Havre_ lie
_Hocher_ and _Harfleur_; each almost at the water's edge. I regretted I
could not see the former; but on our approach to Harfleur I observed, to
the right, some delightfully situated, and not inelegantly built, country
villas or modern chateaux. The immediate run down to Harfleur is
exceedingly pleasing; and though we trotted sharply through the town, the
exquisite little porch of the church was not lost upon me. Few places, I
believe, for its dimensions, have been more celebrated in the middle ages
than Harfleur. The Seine to the left becomes broader and bolder; and,
before you, beneath some wooded heights, lies HAVRE. Every thing gives
indication of commerce and prosperity as you gain upon the town. The houses
increase in number and respectability of appearance--"Voyez-vous la,
Monsieur, a droite, ces belles maisons de plaisance?--(exclaimed the
charioteer)--"C'est la ou demeurent Messieurs vos compatriotes: ma foi, ils
ont un joli gout." The first glance upon these stone houses confirmed the
sagacity of the postilion. They are gloriously situated--facing the ocean;
while the surrounding country teems with fish and game of every species.
Isaac Walton might have contrived to interweave a pretty ballad in his
description of such trout-streams as were those before us.

But we approach the town. The hulls of hundreds of vessels are seen in the
commodious docks; and the flags of merchantmen, from all quarters of the
globe, appear to stream from the mast-heads. It is a scene of bustle, of
business, and variety; and perfectly English. What a contrast to the gloomy
solitude of Montmorenci! The outer and inner gates are passed. _Diligences_
issue from every quarter. The centinels relieve guard. The sound of horns,
from various packet-boats immediately about to sail, echoes on all
sides.... Driving up the high street, we approached the hotel of the _Aigle
d'Or,_[91] kept by Justin, and considered to be the best. We were just in
time for the table d'hote, and to bespeak excellent beds. Travellers were
continually arriving and departing. What life and animation!... We sat down
upwards of forty to dinner: and a good dinner it was. Afterwards, I settled
for the cabriolet, and bade the postboy adieu!--nor can I suppress my
feelings in saying that, in wishing him farewell, I felt ten times more
than I had ever felt upon taking leave of a postilion.

[85] The nave was begun in 1416. LICQUET.

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