n in
great excitement and dissipation. The _plaza_ had been enclosed with a
fencing of poles, and _toros_ were the amusement of the afternoon. The
country sports with bulls are different from the regular bull-fights of
the cities. Any one takes part who pleases, and while there is little of
trained skill, there is often much of fun, frolic, and daring. The bull
is led into the ring from outside by a lasso. It is then lassoed from
behind and dragged up to a post or tree, to which it is firmly tied to
prevent its moving. A rope is then tightly cinched about its middle and
a man mounts upon the back of the beast, fixing his feet firmly in the
rope below, between it and the animal, and winding his hands into it
above. The ropes which hold the bull are then withdrawn so as to set
it loose. Dozens of men and big boys, with jackets and _serapes_, then
torment the beast, which, plunging and dashing at them, scatters them in
every direction. Sometimes the angry animal attempts to break through
the fence, causing excitement and consternation among the crowds who
have been hanging to it and looking over. When, as sometimes happens, he
does break through, there is great scattering before him, and closing
in behind him, until he is again captured. The man riding on the bull's
back clings as long as he can, in spite of the plunging and other
frantic efforts of the animal to unseat him; comparatively few stay long
in their uncomfortable position, and when they are thrown, much agility
is required to escape from the furious animal.

[Illustration: IN TLACOLULA]

[Illustration: TYPICAL ZAPOTEC HOUSE; TLACOLULA]

As we rode into town these sports were in full blast; everyone, save the
bull-fighters, was drunk. Now and then a tube of iron filled with powder
was exploded. A band in front of the municipal house was supplying
music. A little group of men with _pitos_ and _tambours_ strolled from
place to place, playing. Much selling was in progress in the booths, the
chief articles offered being intoxicating drinks. A cluster of drunken
vocalists, sitting flat upon the ground, but almost unable to hold
themselves upright, were singing horribly to untuned guitars. In front
of the town-house a bench had been dragged out by the authorities for
the benefit of the _cura_, who, seated thereon, was watching the sports
with maudlin gravity. The _presidente_ and other officials were standing
by the _padre_, and all were drinking at frequent interva