ne of his
companions died from the effect of the attack. The officer plainly
feared an outbreak or uprising, and was nervous and uneasy, though Don
Guillermo assured him that in his house there was absolutely no danger.
Finally, we quieted down and all went to bed, we with the intention of
an early start the next morning.

[Illustration: AT WORK; MEASURING]

[Illustration: AT WORK; BUST MAKING]

After an uneasy night, I awoke about five o'clock. Just as I was
thinking of calling my companions, I felt a faint trembling, which
rapidly increased to a heavy shaking, of the house in which we slept.
There was a moment's pause, and then a second shaking, which began
stronger than the other, but which lasted about the same time. It was
the most serious earthquake shock we ever experienced in Mexico. Had the
house been made of brick and plaster, considerable damage might have
been done. Everyone was wide awake in an instant. The whole town was in
excitement. The church-bell was rung and the people flocked out into the
street. The shock passed at exactly 5:20, and, in other towns, notably
in Oaxaca, it did considerable damage.

Two days before, we had sent word to the authorities at Cuquila, that we
should breakfast with them on our way back to Tlaxiaco, and ordered them
to be ready for our coming. This was the opportunity which had been
promised them for redeeming themselves and avoiding complaint to their
_jefe_. Arriving at the town at 9:40, we were met at the roadside by
some of the officials, who led us at once to the town-house. Here the
whole town government was gathered to greet us; politely each one,
stepping forward, removed his hat and kissed my hand; they then invited
us to sit down at the table and breakfast,--whereupon eggs, chicken,
_tortillas_ and _frijoles_--the best the town could supply--were set
before us. The whole government sat by, looking on as we ate.

Immediately after breakfast, in accordance with our order previously
sent, we were taken to see a potter at work. Cuquila is famous for two
lines of manufacture, pottery and woolen garments. The pottery here made
is skillfully shaped into wonderfully large vessels of different forms.
The product goes throughout this whole district, and even down to the
Pacific coast, a hundred miles distant. Along the roads it is a common
thing to meet parties of three or four men carrying great loads of
water-jars, large bowls, etc., for sale or trade. While we were