glass in carriage windows made the
landscape look as if covered with snow. Stopped for baths and
refreshments at one of the stations _en route_. Breakfasted later in
train. Passed through a dreary country, a saltpetre desert, relieved
by occasional scrubby trees. Interesting people at wayside
stations--Sindhis, Beloochees, Afghans, Persians, and others.

[Illustration: Sukhur Bridge, Indus]

Reached Shikarpur at two o'clock. Met by Colonel Mayhew, Mr. Ralli,
and Colonel Lyttelton. Drove to Commissioner's residence. Colonel
Mayhew took us to the fair, and to see the wrestling; then to the
bazaars. Wonderful concourse of people. Bought carpets and silks.
Entertained friends at tea 'on board' train. Dined with Mr. Erskine.

_Wednesday, January 12th._--Very wet night. Breakfasted early. Drove
to the Residency, where the fires were most acceptable. Lady Reay's
room partly washed away in night, being in what is appropriately
called a melting-house. To the camp of the Amir, a courteous old man
with five sons. A scene to be remembered. Saw fighting-rams, cocks,
and partridges. Lunched at station, where we met Tom and children.
Afterwards to the great Shikarpur horse-fair and prize-giving.
Interesting sight, but bitterly cold air.

_Thursday, January 13th._--Amir sent seven camels, beautifully
caparisoned, to take us to his camp. Drove through bazaars. Most
graciously received at camp, but luckily escaped refreshment. Thence
to the Commissioner's house. Deputation of judges of show and
principal Sindhi, Hindoo, Mahomedan, and other inhabitants, bringing
fruit, flowers, and sweetmeats. Left at twelve o'clock in Governor's
train for Sukhur Bridge. Proceeded in steamer up the Indus past Rohri.
Town gaily decorated. Saw canal and irrigation works. Hard work going
up stream, easy coming down again, as is often the case. It is said
that a voyage of ten days in one direction often occupies three weeks
in the other. Strolled through town of Sukhur. Picturesque
illuminations in the evening. Returned to our yacht on wheels at ten
o'clock, thoroughly tired.

[Illustration: Old Sukhur]

_Friday, January 14th._--Called at seven. Very cold. Breakfasted with
the Brackenburys. Good-bye to our dear Bombay friends. Drove round the
town, and then with Tom and Tab to Old Sukhur and the bazaars. The
Governor and Lady Reay left at noon for Sindh. We proceeded by water
to Rohri. Train crosses the river in boats; picturesque scene--camels,
boa