of arms, and
curiosities of all kinds, awaiting us. Visited School of Art and
Museum. Lunched at excellent Kaisar-i-Hind hotel. Then to the palace,
which contains endless courts and halls-of-audience, including the
celebrated Dewani Khas, of white marble. Ascended to seventh story, by
special permission. Extensive view over city. Interview with
Maharajah. Saw his stables, trained horses, and fighting animals, and
the beautiful Ram Newas Gardens.

[Illustration: Group of Natives]

_Sunday, January 30th._--Arrived at Agra. Went to church and heard a
good sermon. Drove to the Taj, 'the glory of the world,' which was not
in the least disappointing, high as were our expectations. Dined with
Colonel Smith.

_Monday, January 31st._--Drove out to Futtehpore Sikri, the favourite
residence of the Emperor Akbar, about twenty-five miles from Agra,
where there is a lovely tomb, finer than any we have yet seen. German
photographer taking views of it. Lunched near the Jain Temple, which
contains most curious carvings. Tom says it is remarkable how well
some British regiments stand the climate of India. At Agra we saw the
Manchester Regiment. After three years at Mooltan, perhaps the hottest
station in India, the men were in rude health. They marched the whole
distance to Agra. At the time of our visit the men were playing
football and cricket, as vigorously as if they were in England. They
subscribe for newspapers; they amuse themselves with frequent
theatricals. They are fit to go anywhere and do anything.

The prison at Agra is admirably administered. Under the direction of
Dr. Tyler, the men are being instructed in trades, by which, when
released from confinement, they will be able to earn an honest living.
The manufacture of carpets in the prison has been brought to
perfection. A similar progress has been made in wood-carving in the
prison at Lahore. Throughout India the prisons have been converted,
with a wise humanity, into busy workshops.

_Tuesday, February 1st._--Left Agra by special train at 3 A.M. and
reached Gwalior at seven. Colonel Bannerman, with carriages, kindly
met us. After breakfast drove out to the fort, to reach which we had
to ride on very shaky elephants up a steep road. Barracks deserted now
that the English soldiers are gone. Saw the Jain Temple, restored by
Captain Keith. Returned to Gwalior, and lunched at the Residency.
Proceeded by 1.45 train to Dholepore. Maharajah received us at station
and enter