partly through jungle, the track crossing
various small streams fringed with vegetation so tropical in character
that each little river might have been a miniature Amazon. Presently
we came to the Lotus Tank, full of handsome white double water-lilies
on erect stems, with lotus-like centres, though they are not the real
lotus flower. A hundred people sat down to dinner at the hotel, among
whom were one or two old friends. When dinner was over we all
adjourned on board the 'Sunbeam,' and later Tom took them back to
their steamer, the 'Sirocco,' the largest vessel of the Messageries
Maritimes fleet.

[Illustration: Buddhist Priest]

_March 6th._--We were called at 4.30 A.M., to enable us to start by
the seven o'clock train for Kandy. After a great bustle, we found
ourselves at the station, only to be told that the time of the
departure of the train had been changed to 7.35. The beauty of the
journey by rail up to Kandy in the cool air of the early morning quite
compensated us for the inconvenience of so early a start. A
comfortable saloon carriage, with luxurious armchairs, had been
attached to the train for our use, besides a well-arranged
refreshment car, in which civil waiters served an excellently prepared
meal.

After leaving Colombo we passed through vast fields of paddy, some
covered with the stubble of the recently cut rice, while others were
being prepared for a new crop by such profuse irrigation that the
buffaloes seemed to be ploughing knee-deep through the thick, oozy
soil. It was easy to understand how unhealthy must be the task of
cultivating a rice-field, and what swampy and pestiferous odours must
arise from the brilliant vegetation. 'Green as grass' is a feeble
expression to those familiar with the dazzling verdure of a
paddy-field. Grain cultivation in Ceylon does not, however, appear to
be a very profitable occupation, and seems to be pursued by the
natives for sentimental rather than for practical reasons. Sir C.P.
Layard, who was for many years Governor of the Western Province, has
stated that 'the cultivation of paddy is the least profitable pursuit
to which a native can apply himself. It is persevered in from habit,
and because the value of time and labour never enters into his
calculation. Besides this, agriculture is, in the opinion of a
Cingalese, the most honourable of callings.' All the grain grown in
Ceylon is consumed in the island, and the supply has to be largely
supplemented by impo