ation: Map of India]

[Illustration: The Arch of the Viceroys, Goa]

CHAPTER IV.

_BOMBAY TO GOA._

_February 22nd._--We had been told that Jinjeera was seventy miles
distant from Bombay. Our rate of progress being rather slow, we did
not consult the chart until late in the afternoon, when we found great
difficulty in making out the place at all. At last we discovered it,
marked in the smallest of letters, close to the mouth of the Rajpoori
River; Khassia, now in ruins, being on the opposite or north side.
Instead of seventy, it proved to be only thirty-five miles from
Bombay; so that we had actually overrun it. Knowing that we were
expected, there was nothing to be done except to beat our way back
against the wind during the night. It would have been a pleasant sail
had it not been for the annoying loss of time which it involved.

Just before daybreak we saw the Rajpoori light, and the one at
Kennery, twelve miles south of Bombay. About 9.30 A.M. the Nawab's
brother came on board, and soon afterwards we proceeded to land. After
rowing more than half round a curious island-fort, we arrived at the
gateway, a small opening in the thick walls, where we were met by the
Nawab himself, dressed in European costume, but wearing a red and gold
turban, and surrounded by his native bodyguard.

The landing was rather difficult, for, owing to want of space, the
boat had to be pushed in stern foremost. When this feat had been
accomplished, some of the Nawab's followers brought chairs, and
hoisted us with great dexterity to the top of the steps, where it was
no easy matter to alight with the dignity proper to the occasion.
Having received the salaams of the Nawab and returned his hearty
welcome, we took a long walk all round the curious old fort of
Jinjeera, built five hundred years ago. It contains many narrow
passages designed for security, for they are entirely independent of
the bastions, each of which is provided with its own little water-gate
for the admission of supplies or the escape of the garrison in case of
necessity. I found the walk very fatiguing owing to the heat, and so
did many of the others.

The temperature would indeed have been unbearable but for an
occasional puff of cooler air which reached us through the embrasures.
Some of the guns were of Spanish manufacture, dated 1665, but most of
them were lying useless on the ground. In no case would they avail
much against modern ordnance; but the fort,