tained us with coffee. Reached Agra again at six o'clock.

[Illustration: Water-carrier, Benares]

_Wednesday, February 2nd._--Arrived at Cawnpore at 2 A.M. Drove at
6.45 through the streets to the Memorial Gardens, where a monument is
erected over the well into which so many victims of the Mutiny were
cast. Visited the site of the Assembly Rooms, where women and
children were hacked to death. Then to General Wheeler's entrenchment,
St. John's Church, and the present Memorial Church, which contains
many interesting tablets with touching inscriptions. Proceeded by
train to Lucknow. Went with General Palmer to the Residency. Lovely
gardens, full of purple bougainvillea, orange bignonia, and scarlet
poinsettias. It was difficult to realise that this spot had once been
the scene of so much horror and bloodshed. It was in the gardens of
the Secundra Bagh that two thousand mutineers were killed within two
hours by the 93rd Regiment and the 4th Punjaub Rifles, under Sir Colin
Campbell. Lunched at the Imperial Hotel, and afterwards went to the
soldiers' coffee-tavern.

[Illustration: Nerbudda River--Marble Rocks]

[Illustration: Meari, the Last of the Thugs]

_Thursday, February 3rd._--Reached Cawnpore at midnight, and Allahabad
at 7.20 A.M. Met by Mr. Adam with the Maharajah's carriages, in which
we drove to the principal places of interest, including the fort, the
arsenal, and the Sultan's serai and gardens. Returned to station and
went on by train to Benares. Drove through the narrow and dirty
streets to the Golden Temple. Not much to be seen in the shops except
London brasswork and Hindoo gods. The Temple was chiefly remarkable
for the dirt which abounded. The Cow Temple was dirtier still, with
cows and bulls tied up all round it. Monkey Temple very curious. Drove
out to the cantonments, several miles from the city. Dined at Clarke's
Hotel, and returned to the train very tired.

[Illustration: Temple at Ellora]

_Friday, February 4th._--Called at 6 A.M. Started at half-past seven
for the Ranagar Palace, where we found chairs in readiness to carry us
up the ascent. Received by the old Maharajah, his son, and grandson.
Embarked in a boat propelled by a treadmill, and proceeded down the
river, past all the ghauts and palaces belonging to various kings and
princes or to their descendants. The bathing-ghaut was a wonderful
sight. Women in brilliant colours; red palanquins and pilgrims.
Carriages met us at the bridge.