1859.

Never was there a city so unlike a city, or even the remains of one,
as Old Goa, unless it were Palmyra. Goa is now, in fact, only a forest
of palm-trees with patches of jungle here and there, made gay by
tropical flowers, such as the scarlet coral-tree, the pimelia with its
bright golden convolvulus-like flowers, and scarlet and apricot-yellow
euphorbias. From this mass of vegetation the spire of a church rises
or the tower of some ancient building occasionally peeps forth. No
other traces of its bygone splendour could be seen, whether one looked
upward from the level of the earth or downward from the roof of one of
the few buildings which still remain.

On our return to the landing-place we found that the railway officials
had kindly lent us their large steam-launch, in the cosy little cabin
of which, sheltered by venetian blinds, we enjoyed our well-earned
lunch, for it was now past three o'clock, and we had breakfasted soon
after six. The sea-breeze blew refreshingly as we steamed down the
river, and once clear of the land the heat was not at all oppressive.

Pangaum, or Nova Goa, is a nice clean-looking little town, of some
15,000 inhabitants, at the foot of a hill covered with palm-trees. It
is of comparatively recent growth; for although the viceregal
residence was transferred here from Old Goa in 1759, when a terrible
epidemic broke out in that place, it was not until 1827 that any
vigorous steps were taken to reclaim the land on which it now stands.
In 1843 it was formally declared to be the capital of Portuguese
India, and the Governor, the Archbishop, and other authorities and
dignitaries now live there. The Causeway of Ribandar, which connects
Pangaum with the city of that name, is a wonderful construction,
nearly two miles in length, built in 1633 by order of the then
Viceroy.

Only the gentlemen landed during our brief stay; and they soon
returned from their stroll, having seen most of the objects of
interest in the place. I had in the meantime occupied myself in taking
some photographs--under somewhat difficult conditions, for the breeze
was stiff and strong, and the steam-launch was by no means steady. As
soon as we returned on board the 'Sunbeam' we were met by an
extortionate demand on the part of the Portuguese officials--which, I
am glad to say, was successfully resisted--for the payment of eighty
rupees, in return for the privilege of anchoring in the roads without
the aid of a pilot. Th