ched Rawul Pindi, where there is a large
cantonment. The views of the Indus are fine in places, but the railway
on the whole passes through a barren desolate country until Peshawur
is approached, when the soil becomes more cultivated.

On arrival at Peshawur Station we procured gharries and drove rapidly
to the house of the Commissioner, Colonel Waterfield, who was most
kind. Then in a dog-cart and three gharries to the bazaar; very quaint
and picturesque. Fine view of the Khyber Pass and the Himalayas from
top of police office. Drove to the King's Garden, which is well laid
out and contains many fine trees. The Christian church at Peshawur
contains many memorial tablets to missionaries. Colonel Waterfield
dined with us in the train, and told us much that was deeply
interesting about this part of India.

[Illustration: Afghans at Jamrud]

_Wednesday, January 19th._--Visited by traders of all kinds. Colonel
Waterfield and Major Warburton called for us, and we proceeded in
gharries and char-a-banc to the Jamrud Fort and entrance to Khyber
Pass. Saw 1st Bengal Cavalry and Skinner's Horse exercising under
Colonel Chapman. Inspected portion of the force of 650 infantry and 50
cavalry maintained for the protection of travellers through the
Khyber. Tuesday and Friday are the caravan days each week. Strong
escort for caravans necessary, owing to intermittent fighting between
tribes on either side of pass.

[Illustration: Jamrud Fort]

[Illustration: Camel-guns and Standard]

[Illustration: ELEPHANTA CAVES]

_Thursday, January 20th._--Arrived before daylight at Rawul Pindi.
Woke very early and wrote letters. General Dillon came to greet us.
Drove out to the parade-ground. Passed troops on way to be reviewed.
The strength on parade included 15th Bengal (Mooltan) Cavalry, 18th
Bengal Lancers (Punjaub), Mountain Battery, and the 14th Bengal
Infantry (Sikhs). The whole force marched past in splendid style,
quite equal to any but the Guards, and then the cavalry went by at a
gallop. Mounted gun, carried on five mules, unlimbered in sixty,
limbered in sixty-five seconds. Thukkar quoit-throwing extraordinary,
the quoits looking like flying-fish darting hither and thither. Also
tent-pegging, with and without saddles--shaking rupee off without
touching peg, digging peg out of the ground, changing horses at full
gallop, and hanging on in every conceivable attitude. Lunched at the
residence of the General. Inspected native and Bri