o take in this view; the objects are too
numerous, and the spectator is at a loss whither he should first
direct his gaze,--upon the town, with its many ancient towers
attached to the houses, giving them the air of knights' castles--
upon the numerous country-houses in the shade of luxurious mulberry
plantations--upon the beautiful valley between Beyrout and Mount
Lebanon--or on the distant mountain-range itself. The towering
masses of this magnificent chain, the peculiar colour of its rocks,
and its snowclad summits, riveted my attention longer than any thing
else.

Scarcely had the anchor descended from the bows, before our ship was
besieged by a number of small boats, with more noise and bustle than
even at Constantinople. The half-naked and excitable Arabs or
Fellahs are so ready with offers of service, that it is difficult to
keep them off. It almost becomes necessary to threaten these poor
people with a stick, as they obstinately refuse to take a gentler
hint. As the water is here very shallow, so that even the little
boats cannot come quite close to shore, some others of these brown
forms immediately approached, seized us by the arms, took us upon
their backs amidst continual shouting and quarrelling, and carried
us triumphantly to land.

Before the stranger puts himself into the hands of men of this kind,
such as captains of small craft, donkey-drivers, porters, etc., he
will find it a very wise precaution to settle the price he is to pay
for their services. I generally spoke to the captain, or to some
old stager among the passengers, on this subject. Even when I gave
these people double their usual price, they were not contented, but
demanded an additional backsheesh (gratuity). It is therefore
advisable to make the first offer very small, and to retain
something for the backsheesh. At length I safely reached the house
of Herr Battista (the only inn in the place), and was rejoicing in
the prospect of rest and refreshment, when the dismal cry of "no
room" was raised. I was thus placed in a deplorable position.
There was no second inn, no convent, no place of any kind, where I,
poor desolate creature that I was, could find shelter. This
circumstance worked so much on the host's feelings, that he
introduced me to his wife, and promised to procure me a private
lodging.

I had now certainly a roof above my head, but yet I could get no
rest, nor even command a corner where I might change my dress. I