nd visit
any part I could not examine now.

Before sunset we had already embarked on board the craft that was to
carry us to the long-wished-for, the sacred coast of Joppa. Every
thing was in readiness, and we lacked only the one thing
indispensable--a breeze.

No steamers sail between Joppa and Beyrout; travellers must be
content with sailing vessels, deficient alike as regards cleanliness
and convenience; they are not provided with a cabin, or even with an
awning, so that the passengers remain day and night under the open
sky. Our vessel carried a cargo of pottery, besides rice and corn
in sacks.

Midnight approached, and still we were in harbour, with not a breath
of wind to fill our sails.

Wrapping my cloak tightly round me, I lay down on the sacks, in the
absence of a mattress; but I was not yet sufficiently tired out to
be able to find rest on such an unusual couch. So I rose again in
rather a bad humour, and looked with an evil eye on the Arabs lying
on the sacks around me, who were not "slumbering softly," but
snoring lustily. By way of forcing myself, if possible, into a
poetical train of thought, I endeavoured to concentrate my attention
on the contemplation of the beautiful landscape by moonlight; but
even this would not keep me from yawning. My companion seemed much
in the same mood; for he had also risen from his _soft_ couch, and
was staring gloomingly straight before him. At length, towards
three o'clock in the morning of

May 26th,

a slight breath of wind arose, we hoisted two or three sails, and
glided slowly and noiselessly towards the sea.

Mr. B. had bargained with the captain to keep as close to the shore
as possible, in order that we might see the towns as we passed.
Excepting in Caesarea, it was forbidden to cast anchor any where,
for the plague was raging at Sur (Tyre) and in several other places.

Bargains of this kind must be taken down in writing at the
consulates, and only one-half of the sum agreed should be paid in
advance; the other half must be kept in hand, to operate as a check
on the crew. After every precaution has been taken, one can seldom
escape without some bickering and quarrelling. On these occasions
it is always advisable at once to take high ground, and not to give
way in the most trifling particular, for this is the only method of
gaining peace and quietness.

Towards seven o'clock in the morning we sailed by the town and
fortress of Saida. The town l