sat with my hostess from eleven in the morning until five in the
afternoon, and a miserably long time it appeared. I could not read,
write, or even talk, for neither my hostess nor her children knew
any language but Arabic. I had, however, time to notice what was
going on around me, and observed that these children were much more
lively than those in Constantinople, for here they were continually
chattering and running about. According to the custom of the
country, the wife does nothing but play with the children or gossip
with the neighbours, while her husband attends to kitchen and
cellar, makes all the requisite purchases, and besides attending to
the guests, even lays the tablecloth for his wife and children. He
told me that in a week at furthest, his wife would go with the
children to a convent on the Lebanon, to remain there during the hot
season of the year. What a difference between an Oriental and a
European woman!

I still found the heat at sea far from unendurable; a soft wind
continually wafted its cooling influence towards us, and an awning
had been spread out to shelter us from the rays of the sun. But
what a contrast when we come to land! As I sat in the room here the
perspiration dropped continually from my brow, and now I began to
understand what is meant by being in the tropics. I could scarcely
await the hour when I should be shewn to a room to change my
clothes; but to-day I was not to have an opportunity of doing so,
for at five o'clock a messenger came from Mr. Bartlett with the
welcome intelligence that we could continue our journey, as nothing
was to be feared from the Druses and Maronites, and the plague only
reigned in isolated places through which it was not necessary that
we should pass. He had already engaged a servant who would act as
cook and dragoman (interpreter); provisions and cooking utensils had
also been bought, and places were engaged on an Arab craft.
Nothing, therefore, remained for me to do but to be on the sea-shore
by six o'clock, where his servant would be waiting for me. I was
much rejoiced on hearing this good news: I forgot that I required
rest and a change of clothes, packed up my bundle, and hurried to
the beach. Of the town I only saw a few streets, where there was a
great bustle. I also noticed many swarthy Arabs and Bedouins, who
wore nothing but a shirt. I did not feel particularly anxious to
see Beyrout and its vicinity, as I intended to return soon a