of tropical fruits, and
guarded by impenetrable hedges of the Indian fig-tree, form a half-
circle round the lower portion of the town.
The Indian fig-tree, which I here saw for the first time, has an odd
appearance. From its stem, which is very dwarfish, leaves a foot in
length, six inches in breadth, and half an inch in thickness, shoot
forth. This tree seldom sends forth branches; the leaves grow one
out of another, and at the extremity the fruit is formed. Its
length is about two or three inches. Ten or twenty such figs are
frequently found adhering to a single leaf.
I could not conceive how it happened that in these hot countries,
without rain to refresh them, the trees all looked so healthy and
beautiful. This fact, I found, was owing to the numerous channels
cut through the gardens, which are thus artificially irrigated. The
heavy dews and cool nights also tend to restore the drooping
vegetation. One great ornament of our gardens was, however, totally
wanting--a lawn with wild flowers. Trees and vegetables here grow
out of the sandy or stony earth, a circumstance hardly noticed at a
distance, but which produces a disagreeable effect on a near view.
Flowers I found none.
The whole region round Joppa is so covered with sand, that one sinks
ankle-deep at every step.
Consul D--- fulfils the duties of two consulates, the Austrian and
the French. From both these offices he derives no benefit but the
honour. By some people this honour would be highly valued, but many
would rate it at nothing at all. This family, however, seems to
have a great idea of honour; for the consul's office is hereditary,
and I found the son of the present dignitary already looking forward
to filling his place.
In the evening I was present at a real Oriental entertainment in the
house of this friendly family.
Mats, carpets, and pillows were spread out on the terrace of the
house, and a very low table placed in the centre. Round this the
family sat, or rather reclined, cross-legged. I was accommodated
with a chair somewhat higher than the table. Beside my plate and
that of the Consul were laid a knife and fork, that appeared to have
been hunted out from some lumber closet; the rest ate with a species
of natural knife and fork, namely--fingers.
The dishes were not at all to my taste. I had still too much of the
European about me, and too little appetite, to be able to endure
what these good people seemed to conside
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