en a relish as that with which I drank this
cooling beverage after my fatiguing ride in the burning heat. Count
Zichy offered our entertainers some money, but they would not take
it. The chief stepped forward and shook several of us by the hand
in token of friendship; for from the moment when a stranger has
broken bread with Bedouins or Arabs, or has applied to them for
protection, he is not only safe among their tribe, but they would
defend him with life and limb from the attacks of his enemies.
Still it is not advisable to meet them on the open plain; so
contradictory are their manners and customs.

We were now advancing with great strides towards a more animated, if
not a more picturesque landscape, and frequently met and overtook
small caravans. One of these had been attacked the previous
evening; the poor Arabs had offered a brave resistance, and had
beaten off the foe; but one of them was lying half dead upon his
camel, with a ghastly shot-wound in his head.

Nimble long-eared goats were diligently searching among the rocks
for their scanty food, and a few grottoes or huts of stone announced
to us the proximity of a little town or village. Right thankful
were we to emerge safely from these fearful deserts into a less
sterile and more populous region.

We passed through Bethany, and I visited the cave in which it is
said that Lazarus slumbered before he came forth alive at the voice
of the Redeemer. Then we journeyed on to Jerusalem by the same road
on which the Saviour travelled when the Jewish people shewed their
attachment and respect, for the last time, by strewing olive and
palm branches in his way. How soon was this scene of holy rejoicing
changed to the ghastly spectacle of the Redeemer's torture and
death!

Towards two o'clock in the afternoon we arrived safely at Jerusalem,
and were greeted with a hearty welcome by our kind hosts.

A few days after my return from the foregoing excursion, I left
Jerusalem for ever. A calm and peaceful feeling of happiness filled
my breast; and ever shall I be thankful to the Almighty that He has
vouchsafed me to behold these realms. Is this happiness dearly
purchased by the dangers, fatigues, and privations attendant upon
it? Surely not. And what, indeed, are all the ills that chequer
our existence here below to the woes endured by the blessed Founder
of our religion! The remembrance of these holy places, and of Him
who lived and suffered here, shall surel