t the thirteen days I passed at Jerusalem, I did not find
the heat excessive. The thermometer generally stood in the shade at
from 20 to 22 degrees, and in the sun at 28 degrees (Reaum.), very
seldom reaching 30 degrees.

Fruit I saw none, with the exception of the little apricots called
mish-mish, which are not larger than a walnut, but nevertheless have
a very fine flavour. It is a pity that the inhabitants of these
countries contribute absolutely nothing towards the cultivation and
improvement of their natural productions; if they would but exert
themselves, many a plant would doubtless flourish luxuriantly. But
here the people do not even know how to turn those gifts to
advantage which nature has bestowed upon them in rich profusion, and
of superior quality; for instance, olives. Worse oil can hardly be
procured than that which they give you in Syria. The Syrian oil and
olives can scarcely be used by Europeans. The oil is of a perfectly
green colour, thick, and disgusting alike to the smell and taste;
the olives are generally black, a consequence of the negligent
manner in which they are prepared. The same remark holds good with
regard to the wine, which would be of excellent quality if the
people did but understand the proper method of preparing it, and of
cultivating the vineyards. At present, however, they adulterate
their wine with a kind of herb, which gives it a very sharp and
disagreeable taste.

On the whole, the neighbourhood of Jerusalem is very desolate,
barren, and sterile. I found the town itself neither more nor less
animated than most Syrian cities. I should depart from truth if I
were to say, with many travellers, that it appeared as though a
peculiar curse rested upon this city. The whole of Judea is a stony
country, and this region contains many places with environs as
rugged and barren as those of Jerusalem.

Birds and butterflies are rarely seen at the present season of the
year, not only in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, but throughout the
whole of Syria. Where, indeed, could a butterfly or a bee find
nourishment, while not a flower nor a blade of grass shoots up from
the stony earth? And a bird cannot live where there are neither
seeds nor insects, but must soar away across the seas to cooler and
more fertile climes. Not only here, but throughout the whole of
Syria, I missed the delightful minstrels of the air. The sparrow
alone can find sustenance every where, for he lives