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ooks respectable enough, and contains
some spacious houses. The fortress is separated from the town by a
small bay, across which a wooden bridge has been built. The
fortress seems in a very dilapidated condition; many breaches are
still in the same state in which they were left after the taking of
the town by the English in 1840, and part of the wall has fallen
into the sea. In the background we could descry some ruins on a
rock, apparently the remains of an ancient castle.
The next place we saw was Sarepta, where Elijah the prophet was fed
by the poor widow during the famine.
The Lebanon range becomes lower and lower, while its namesake, the
Anti-Lebanon, begins to rise. It is quite as lofty as the first-
named range, which it closely resembles in form. Both are traversed
by fields of snow, and between them stands a third colossus, Mount
Hermon.
Next came the town of Tyre or Sur, now barren and deserted; for that
mighty scourge of humanity, the plague, was raging there to a
fearful extent. A few scattered fragments of fortifications and
numerous fallen pillars lie strewed on the shore.
And now at length I was about to see places which many have longed
to behold, but which few have reached. With a beating heart I gazed
unceasingly towards St. Jean d'Acre, which I at length saw rising
from the waves, with Mount Carmel in the background. Here, then,
was the holy ground on which the Redeemer walked for us fallen
creatures! Both St. Jean d'Acre and Mount Carmel can be
distinguished a long distance off.
For a second time did a mild and calm night sink gently on the earth
without bringing me repose. How unlucky it is that we find it so
much harder to miss comforts we have been used to enjoy, than to
acquire the habit of using comforts to which we have been
unaccustomed! Were this not the case, how much easier would
travelling be! As it is, it costs us many an effort ere we can look
hardships boldly in the face. "But patience!" thought I to myself;
"I shall have more to endure yet; and if I return safely, I shall be
as thoroughly case-hardened as any native."
Our meals and our beverage were very simple. In the morning we had
pilau, and in the evening we had pilau; our drink was lukewarm
water, qualified with a little rum.
From Beyrout to the neighbourhood of St. Jean d'Acre, the coast and
a considerable belt of land adjoining it are sandy and barren. Near
Acre every thing changed; we once more b
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