eheld pretty country-houses
surrounded by pomegranate and orange plantations, and a noble
aqueduct intersects the plain. Mount Carmel, alone barren and
unfruitful, stands in striking contrast to the beauteous landscape
around; jutting boldly out towards the sea, it forms the site of a
handsome and spacious convent.

The town of St. Jean d'Acre and its fortifications were completely
destroyed during the last war (in 1840), and appear to sigh in vain
for repairs. The houses and mosques are full of cannon-balls and
shot-holes. Every thing stands and lies about as though the enemy
had departed but yesterday. Six cannons peer threateningly from the
wall. The town and fortifications are both built on a tongue of
land washed by the sea.

May 27th.

During the night we reached Caesarea. With the eloquence of a
Demosthenes, our captain endeavoured to dissuade us from our project
of landing here; he pointed out to us the dangers to which we were
exposing ourselves, and the risks we should run from Bedouins and
snakes. The former, he averred, were accustomed to conceal
themselves in hordes among the ruins, in order to ease travellers of
their effects and money; being well aware that such spots were only
visited by curious tourists with well-filled purses, they were
continually on the watch, like the robber-knights of the good old
German empire. "An enemy no less formidable," said the captain,
"was to be encountered in the persons of numerous snakes lurking in
the old walls and on the weed-covered ground, which endangered the
life of the traveller at every step." We were perfectly well aware
of these facts, having gleaned them partly from descriptions of
voyages, partly from oral traditions; and so they were not powerful
enough to arrest our curiosity. The captain himself was really less
actuated by the sense of our danger, in advising us to abandon our
undertaking, than by the reflection of the time it lost him; but he
exerted himself in vain. He was obliged to cast anchor, and at
daybreak to send a boat ashore with us.

Our arms consisted of parasols and sticks (the latter we carried in
order to beat the bushes); we were escorted by the captain, his
servant, and a couple of sailors.

In the ruins we certainly met with a few suspicious-looking
characters in the shape of wandering Bedouins. As it was too late
to beat a retreat, we advanced bravely towards them with trusting
and friendly looks. The Bedouins did