able coolness reigned every where.

Neither stoves nor chimneys were to be seen, as winter is here
replaced by a very mild rainy season. The heat in summer is often
said to be insupportable, the temperature rising to more than 36
degrees Reaumur. To-day it reached 30 degrees in the sun.

We drank to my safe return to my country, in real old Cyprian wine.
Shall I ever see it again? I hope so, if my journey progresses as
favourably as it has begun. But Syria is a bad country, and the
climate is difficult to bear; yet with courage and perseverance for
my companions, I may look forward to the accomplishment of my task.
The good doctor seemed much annoyed that he had nothing to offer me
but Cyprian wine and a few German biscuits. At this early season
fruit is not to be had, and cherries do not flourish here because
the climate is too hot for them. In Smyrna I ate the last for this
year. When I re-embarked in the afternoon, Mr. Bartlett came with
the English consul, who wished, he said, to make the acquaintance of
a lady possessing sufficient courage to undertake so long and
perilous a journey by herself. His astonishment increased when he
was informed that I was an unpretending native of Vienna. The
consul was kind enough to offer me the use of his house if I
returned by way of Cyprus; he also inquired if he could give me some
letters of recommendation to the Syrian consuls. I was touched by
this hearty politeness on the part of a perfect stranger--an
Englishman moreover, a race on whom we are accustomed to look as
cold and exclusive!

CHAPTER VI.

Arrival at Beyrout--Fellahs--Backsheesh--Uncomfortable quarters--
Saida--Tyre--St. Jean d'Acre--Caesarea--Excursion among the ruins--
Jaffa--An eastern family--The Indian fig-tree--An Oriental dinner--
Costume of the women of Jaffa--Oppressive heat--Gnats--Ramla--Syrian
convents--Bedouins and Arabs--Kariet el Areb, or Emmaus--The
Scheikh--Arrival at Jerusalem.

May 25th.

This morning I could discern the Syrian coast, which becomes more
glorious the nearer we approach. Beyrout, the goal of our voyage,
was jealously hidden from our eyes to the very last moment. We had
still to round a promontory, and then this Eden of the earth lay
before us in all its glory. How gladly would I have retarded the
course of our vessel, as we passed from the last rocky point into
the harbour, to have enjoyed this sight a little longer! One pair
of eyes does not suffice t