rnament beside the pomegranate and orange trees.
My attention was also attracted to numerous kinds of splendid
acacias; some of these grew to an immense size, as high as the
walnut-trees of my own country.

The villas of the townspeople all strongly resemble each other. The
house stands in the midst of the garden, and the whole is surrounded
by a wall.

In the evening I visited some of the peasants, in company with Herr
von C. This gentleman informed me that these people were very poor,
but still I found them decently clad and comfortably lodged in large
roomy dwellings built of stone. Altogether, the condition of
affairs seems here vastly superior to that in Galicia and in Hungary
near the Carpathian mountains.

I reckoned the day I spent with this amiable family among the most
pleasant I had yet passed. How gladly would I have accepted their
hearty invitation to remain several weeks with them! But I had lost
so much time in Constantinople, that on the morning of

May 20th

I was compelled to bid adieu to Frau von C. and her dear children.
Herr von C. escorted me back to Smyrna. We took the opportunity of
roaming through many streets of the Franks' quarter, which I found,
generally speaking, pretty and cheerful enough, and moreover level
and well paved. The handsomest street is that in which the consuls
reside. The houses are finely built of stone, and the halls are
tastefully paved with little coloured pebbles, arranged in the form
of wreaths, stars, and squares. The inhabitants generally take up
their quarters in these entrance-halls during the day, as it is
cooler there than in the rooms. To nearly every house a pretty
garden is attached.

The Turkish town is certainly quite different; it is built of wood,
and is angular and narrow; dogs lie about in the streets, just as at
Brussa and Constantinople. And why should it be otherwise here?
Turks live in all this quarter, and they do not feel the necessity
of clean and airy dwellings like the fastidious Franks.

The bazaars are not roofed; and here also the costlier portion of
the wares is kept under lock and key.

It is well worth the traveller's while to make an excursion to
Burnaba, a place lying on the sea-coast not far from the town, and
serving, like Halizar, as a retreat for the townspeople during the
summer. The views in this direction are various, and the road is
good. The whole appearance of the place is that of a very extended
village