r in the midst,
surrounded by mulberry-trees, was the first thing we beheld. Round
this courtyard were two stories of clean but simply-furnished rooms.
The fare was good, and we were even regaled with a bottle of
excellent wine from the lower regions of Olympus.

May 14th.

Next morning we visited the town and its environs, under the
guidance and protection of a kavasse. The town itself is of great
extent, and is reported to contain above 10,000 houses, inhabited
exclusively by Turks. The population of the suburbs, which comprise
nearly 4000 houses, is a mixed one of Christians, Jews, Greeks, etc.
The town numbers three hundred and sixty mosques; but the greater
portion of them are so insignificant and in such a dilapidated
condition, that we scarcely observed them.

Strangers are here permitted to enter the mosques in company of a
kavasse. We visited some of the principal, among which the Ulla
Drchamy may decidedly be reckoned. The cupola of this mosque is
considered a masterpiece, and rests upon graceful columns. It is
open at the top, thus diffusing a chastened light and a clear
atmosphere throughout the building. Immediately beneath this cupola
stands a large marble basin, in which small fishes swim merrily
about.

The mosque of Sultan Mahomed I. and of Sultan Ildirim Bojasid must
also be noticed on account of their splendid architecture; the
latter, too, for the fine view which is thence obtained. In the
mosque of Murad I. visitors are still shewn weapons and garments
which once belonged to that sultan. I saw none of the magnificent
regal buildings mentioned by some writers. The imperial kiosk is so
simple in its appearance, that if we had not climbed the hill on
which it stands for the sake of the view, it would not have been
worth the trouble of the walk.

A stone bridge, roofed throughout its entire length, crosses the bed
of the river, which has very steep banks, but contains very little
water. A double row of small cottages, in which silk-weavers live
and ply their trade, lines this bridge, which I was surprised to see
here, as its architecture seemed rather to appertain to my own
country than to the East. During my whole journey I did not see a
second bridge of this kind, either in Syria or Egypt.

The streets are all very dull and deserted, a fact which is rather
remarkable in a town of 100,000 inhabitants. In most of the streets
more dogs than men are to be seen. Not only in Constanti