t--unpleasant
day. Walked by the river--at night saw the comet again from the
bridge.
_Sept. 30th._--Breakfast. The stout gentleman from Caithness,
Mr. John Miller, gave me his card--show him mine--his delight.
_Oct. 1st._--Left Inverness for Fort Augustus by
steamer--passengers--strange man--tall gentleman--half
doctor--breakfast--dreadful hurricane of wind and rain--reach
Fort Augustus--inn--apartments--Edinburgh ale--stroll over the
bridge to a wretched village--wind and rain--return--fall
asleep before fire--dinner--herrings, first-rate--black ale,
Highland mutton--pudding and cream--stroll round the fort--wet
grass--stormy-like--wind and rain--return--kitchen--kind,
intelligent woman from Dornoch--no Gaelic--shows me a Gaelic
book of spiritual songs by one Robertson--talks to me about
Alexander Cumming, a fat blacksmith and great singer of Gaelic
songs.
But to return to Borrow's letters to his wife:
To Mrs. George Borrow, 38 Camperdown Terrace, Gt. Yarmouth
INVERNESS, _September 29th, 1858._
MY DEAR CARRETA,--I have got your letter, and glad enough I was
to get it. The day after to-morrow I shall depart from here for
Fort Augustus at some distance up the lake. After staying a few
days there, I am thinking of going to the Isle of Mull, but I
will write to you if possible from Fort Augustus. I am rather
sorry that I came to Scotland--I was never in such a place in
my life for cheating and imposition, and the farther north you
go the worse things seem to be, and yet I believe it is
possible to live very cheap here, that is if you have a house
of your own and a wife to go out and make bargains, for things
are abundant enough, but if you move about you are at the mercy
of innkeepers and suchlike people. The other day I was swindled
out of a shilling by a villain to whom I had given it for
change. I ought, perhaps, to have had him up before a
magistrate provided I could have found one, but I was in a wild
place and he had a clan about him, and if I had had him up I
have no doubt I should have been outsworn. I, however, have met
one fine, noble old fellow. The other night I lost my way
amongst horrible moors and wandered for miles and miles without
seeing a soul. At last I saw a light which came from the window
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