oughout Italy, the white of Bologna and the Veneto being the
exceptions. Finally, do not be alarmed if at a _trattoria_ a waiter puts
before you a huge flask of wine. It has been weighed before it is
brought to you. It will be weighed when the waiter takes it away after
you have finished, and what you have drunk, plus the great gulp the
waiter is sure to take if he gets a chance, is what you will be charged
for.

The Anglo-Saxon travelling in Italy is likely to strike Turin, or Milan,
or Genoa as his first big town, according to the route he has chosen,
and those are therefore the three towns the capabilities of which I
shall first try to describe.

Turin

You will be fed well enough at your hotel whether you are at the Grand,
or Kraft's, or the Trombetta, but if you want to test the cookery of the
town I should suggest a visit to the Ristorante della Meridiana, which
is in the Via Santa Theresa, the street which joins the Piazza Solferino
and San Carlo; or to the Ristorante del Cambio, which is in the Piazza
Carignano, where stands a marble statue of a philosopher and which has a
couple of palaces as close neighbours. At these, or at the Lagrange and
Nazionale, both in the Via Lagrange, you will get the dishes of Turin.

If you wish to commence with _hors-d'oeuvre_, try the _Pepperoni_,
which are large yellow or red chillies preserved in pressed grapes and
served with oil and vinegar, salt and pepper. The _Grissini_, the little
thin sticks of bread which are made in Turin and are famous for their
digestible quality, will be by your plate. Next I should suggest the
_Busecca_, though it is rather satisfying, being a thick soup of tripe
and vegetables; and then must come a great delicacy, the trout from the
Mount Cenis lake. For a meat course, if the boiled beef of the place,
always excellent, is too serious an undertaking, or if the _Frittura
Mista_ is too light, let me recommend the _Rognone Trifolato_, veal
kidney stewed in butter with tomatoes and other good things, including a
little Marsala wine. The white Piedmontese truffles served as a salad,
or with a hot sauce, must on no account be overlooked; nor the
_Cardons_, the white thistle, served with the same sauce; nor indeed the
_Zucchini Ripieni_, which are stuffed pumpkins; and some _Fonduta_, the
cheese of the country, melted in butter and eggs and sprinkled with
white truffles, will form a fitting end to your repast unless you feel
inclined for the biscuit