and an indifferent sweet or ice. Here, as in most
Swedish eating-places, objection is taken to coffee being served in the
restaurants, people being requested to take it in the cafe, which is
generally the next room. Supper is served at the Operakaellaren, and the
restaurant is crowded for this meal. It costs 2 kronor and consists of a
_smoergasbord_ or copious _hors-d'oeuvre_, an entree, and meat.

The Grand Hotel is fairly popular, owing to the smartness of the
dining-room and the "swagger" way in which meals are served. The food is
not as good as the decorations. The lunch costs 2 kr. 50 oere and the
dinner 3 kr. 50 oere.

The Hotel Rydberg is also most popular, and the food is good. A great
feature is made here, as everywhere, of the _smoergasbord_ (literally
"bread and butter") table, which has a room to itself and on which are a
score or more of dishes, there being some wonderful combinations of
smoked eels and other fish and eggs amongst them. There are from five to
thirty of these dishes, all delicate and appetising. The guests eat them
standing. In the same room is a huge plated spirit-stand containing a
number of different spirits, white brandy called "Branvin," and other
drinks resembling Vodka. The crayfish, _kraftor_, a little larger than
the French ones, excellent in flavour and served in a terrine, the
_bisque_ soup, _caviar_ served, as of course it should be, on a bed of
ice are good at the Rydberg and the cook manages to make even a
ptarmigan toothsome. It is a favourite place for people to sup at after
the theatre. The _table-d'hote_ dinner costs 3 kr. 50 oere and the lunch
2 kr. 50 oere. Caloric punch is a favourite drink here, as elsewhere in
Sweden, and two men think nothing of drinking a bottle between them
after dinner or supper.

The Cafe du Nord is very crowded and very popular, although more
bourgeois than the others. The food is good, meals being served mostly
_a la carte_. A good _filet de boeuf_ costs about 90 oere. The business
men who mostly patronise this cafe dine from 3 to 4 P.M. Many people
sup there in the evening. There are some excellently painted pictures in
black and gold, rather daring and French in subject, on the walls.

There are also the Cafe Anglais (fairly good) and the Hamburger Boers.
The Berns' Salonger, the Blanch Cafe and Stroemparterren are cafes where
coffee, punch, liqueurs, and sandwiches may be had. The former is the
only one open in summer and winter, the two