rters and herds were, he
told me, the people who partook of this repast, and every man ate his
own lamb, leaving little but the bones. I did not go to that inn. That
place of refreshment was at one end of the social ladder, the Grand and
Quirinale are at the other. Set a man down in the restaurant of the
Grand, or the Winter Garden of the Quirinale, and there will be nothing
to give him a hint as to whether he is in London, or Paris, or Rome. He
will eat an excellent dinner--French in all respects--and will be waited
on by civil waiters, whom he knows to be foreigners, but who will answer
him in English whatever language he addresses them in. At either
restaurant an excellent dinner of ceremony can be given. The last time
that I stayed at the Grand, I ate the _table-d'hote_ dinner on several
occasions and found it good. The Roma in the Corso, and the Colonna in
the Piazza Colonna, are the typical city restaurants; but they have a
leaning towards the French cuisine. To eat the food of Rome, try La
Venete in the Via Campo Marzio, which has a garden; or, more distinctive
still, the Tre Re, hard by the Pantheon, where you must talk Italian, or
else make signs.

Bucci, in the Piazza della Coppelle, is the Scott's or Driver's of Rome,
and you can dine or lunch there off shell-fish soup, and the fish which
comes from Anzio and the other fishing villages of the coast.

There is a curious restaurant close by the station, Vagliani is, I
fancy, the owner, where artichokes are the staple fare, and where the
decorations are in keeping with the food. You will find the foreign
colony of art students--Danes, Norwegians, Germans--in the restaurants
of the Via delle Crace, Coradetti, where the food is well cooked but
served without any unnecessary luxury, being perhaps the best
eating-house; but the real haunt of the artist in Rome is, at the
present time, the Trattoria Fiorella in the Via delle Colonelli. Only do
not go and stare at him while he is taking his meals, for if you do, he
will go elsewhere to another _trattoria_, the position of which he will
keep a dead secret. Of course there are Roman dishes without number, and
these are some of the best known of them:--

The _Zuppa di Pesce_ is a _Bouillabaisse_ without any saffron. The fish
and shell-fish (John Dory, red mullet, cuttle-fish, lobster, whiting,
muraena, and mussels) which compose it are served on toast. The _Fritto
di Calamaretti_ is a fry of cuttle-fish in oil. _Cinghi