, Sacher's, mentioned before, and the Rondeau and
Lusthaus, which are made the turning-points in the daily drives of the
Viennese.

Vienna keeps very early hours, the cafes closing well before midnight,
unless they are kept open for some special _fete_.

In the environs of Vienna there are pleasant restaurants on the
Kalenberg, up which a little railway runs, and at Klosterneuberg, where
one can drink the excellent wine of the place at the Stiftskeller before
one admires the view from the terrace or looks at the treasures of the
abbey.

Baden

Baden bei Wien is a little watering-place sixteen miles from the
capital, to which the Viennese go for a "cure," and to which the
Carlsbad and Marienbad doctors sometimes send their patients to begin an
after cure. It is a pretty little place with shady parks and an
unpretentious restaurant at the Kurhaus and another in the
Weilburggasse, and the walk up the valley of the Schwechat has
cafe-restaurants at several of the points of interest.

Carlsbad

Probably twenty Englishmen go to Carlsbad for their liver's sake for
every ten who go to Vienna to be amused, and the great Bohemian town in
the valley where the hot spring gushes up is one of the resorts to which
gourmets, who have eaten not wisely but too well, are most frequently
sent. It is a town of good but very simple fare, for the doctors rule it
absolutely, and nothing which can hurt a patient's digestion is allowed
to appear on the bill of fare of any of the restaurants or hotels.

The life of the place, which chiefly is bound up in the consideration of
where to eat the three simple meals allowed, is curious. In the morning,
after the disagreeable necessity of drinking three or more glassfuls of
the hot water, every man and every lady spends a half hour deciding
where to breakfast and what kind of roll and what kind of ham they shall
eat. The bakers' shops are crowded by people picking out the special
rusk or special roll they prefer, and these are carried off in little
pink bags. Two slices of ham are next bought from one of the shops
where men in white clothes slice all day long at the lean Prague ham or
the fatter Westphalian. No man is really a judge of ham until he has
argued for a quarter of an hour every morning outside the shop in the
Carlsbad High Street as to what breed of pig gives the most appetising
slice. Bag in hand, ham in pocket, the man undergoing a cure walks to
the Elephant in the Alte Wiese,