taurant, and is open from breakfast time in the morning till 3
or 4 the following morning. Tavares is the principal rendezvous of the
young bloods, both Portuguese and foreign, particularly so after the
theatres and opera are over and suppers are in demand. The revel goes on
from twelve o'clock until any hour of the morning, more especially as
regards the _cabinets particuliers_, which are best entered from the
back entrance situated in the Rua das Gaveas. A very good _table-d'hote_
lunch and dinner are served daily at the very moderate cost of 600 and
800 reis. The proprietor and manager is Snr. Caldeira, who is most
attentive and obliging to his guests.

If any visitor to Lisbon is anxious to try the Portuguese cooking, he
cannot do better than pay a visit to the Leao d'Ouro, situated in the
Rua de Principe, adjoining the Central Railway Station. This formerly
was, and to a great extent still is, the rendezvous of actors, authors,
and professional men. The food is good and very cheap, served _a la
carte_. Portuguese food may be called "highly seasoned," but for all
that there are many good dishes, one speciality of the house being _Sopa
de Camarao_, a _bisque_ of prawns, which in no way is to be despised.
With regard to wines at this restaurant it is advisable to drink those
of the country.

Estoril

Estoril is a very picturesque and beautiful spot about three-quarters of
an hour from Lisbon by rail. Here there has been lately established a
high-class hotel with _cuisine a la Francaise_ and good wines. The hotel
is owned and managed by M. Estrade, who has had a long experience in
this class of business.

N.N.-D.

CHAPTER XI

AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY

Viennese restaurants and
cafes--Baden--Carlsbad--Marienbad--Prague--Bad Gastein--Budapesth.

Vienna

The cuisine of the best of the Viennese restaurants, those attached to
the big hotels, is French, though the Wiener Rostbraten and the Wiener
Schnitzel are world-famous, and the typical Viennese dinner is a good
French dinner with the addition of very delicious bread and pastry made
with a lighter hand than any Gallic cook brings to his task. The wines
of the country of Retz, Mailberg, Pfaffstadt, Gumpoldskirchen,
Klosterneuberg, Nussberg, and Voeslau should all be tasted, most of them
being more than drinkable. Beer, however, is the real Viennese drink,
and the very light liquid, ice cold, is a delightful beverage.

"Stay at what hotel you ple