ale in agro
dolce_ is wild boar cooked in a sauce of chocolate, sugar, plums,
_pinolis_, red currant, and vinegar. A _bacchio e Capretto alla
Cacciatora_ is very young lamb and sucking-goat cut into small pieces,
and cooked in a sauce to which anchovies and chillies give the dominant
taste. _Pollo en padella_ are spring chickens cut up and fried with
tomatoes, large sweet chillies, and white wine. _Pasticcio di
Maccheroni_ is an excellent macaroni pie, and _Gnocchi di Patele_ are
little knobs of paste boiled like macaroni. Broccoli, green peas cooked
with butter and ham, and, above all, the Roman artichoke stewed in
oil--which is to be obtained at its best in the old Jewish eating-houses
of the Ghetto--are the vegetables of Rome. A very small ham is one of
the local delicacies. _Gnocchi di latte_ are custards in layers, each of
which is seasoned with either sugar or butter, or cinnamon or Parmesan
cheese; and _Zuppa Inglese_ is a rich cake soused with liqueurs and
vanilla cream, covered with meringue and baked. _Uova di Bufola_ is a
little ball of cheese made from buffalo's milk. The best kind, _Abota_
is kept in wrappings of fresh myrtle leaves. Marino (red) and Frascati
(white) are two of the best local wines. Orvietto has a faint
remembrance of the champagne taste. Monte Fiascone is a dessert wine.

Naples

There is a certain man in a certain London club who has a grievance
against Italy in general, against Naples in particular, and, to descend
to minute detail, against one Neapolitan restaurant above all others. He
tells his tale to all comers as a warning to those who _will_ travel in
"foreign parts." He returned from a long turn of service in India, and,
landing at Naples, concluded that as he was in Europe he could get
British food. He went to a restaurant which shall be nameless, and
ordered a "chump chop." He had the greatest difficulty, through an
interpreter, to explain exactly what it was that he wanted, and then was
forced to wait for an hour before it appeared. When the bill was
presented it frightened him, but the proprietor, on being summoned, said
that as such an extraordinary joint had been asked for, he had been
compelled to buy a whole sheep to supply it. This is a warning not to
ask for British dishes in a Neapolitan restaurant.

Time was when the Gambrinus, which is the excellently decorated cafe and
restaurant at the end of the Chiaja, and the big cafe and restaurant in
the great arcade, were