s,
perhaps, the better of the two. If you require any _specialites_ the
waiter will be sure to know what to advise; one dish, called _Brochettes
de Filet_, may be recommended. The waiters at Enesco's and Jordachi's
are intelligible in German and Roumanian; at the Continental, and
especially at Capsa's, they are mostly French.

If you pay a call in Bucarest you will be offered _Dolceazza_, a kind of
sweetmeat, and a glass of water.

CHAPTER XIII

SWEDEN. NORWAY. DENMARK

Stockholm restaurants--Malmoe--Storvik--Gothenburg--Christiana--
Copenhagen--Elsinore.

Stockholm

Of all the restaurants in the capital of Sweden the Hasselbacken, in the
Royal Djurgarten Park, is the most interesting to visit should it be
open, which it is from the beginning of March till the end of September.
During the early part of the season Tziganes play in one of the small
rooms, whereas in summer a somewhat noisy orchestra plays in the garden.
The price of dinner, _a prix fixe_, is 3 kronor 50 oere; this includes
soup, fish, meat, _releve_ (generally a Swedish guinea-fowl called
_hjaerpe_) and ice. Wine and coffee are of course extra.

The Hasselbacken is often used for the giving of banquets of ceremony,
but the dinner at 3 kr. 50 oere is more likely to interest the stranger
within the gates than the more extensive feasts, so I give a typical
menu of this very reasonably priced repast:--

Puree a la Reine.
Saumon fume aux Epinards.
Selle de Mouton aux Legumes.
Gelinottes roties. Salade.
Soufflee au Citron.

Quite one of the best restaurants is in the Hotel Continental opposite
the Railway Station. The food here is excellent, _tornedos_ (1 kr. 50
oere) and _naesselkalsoppa_, an excellent soup made from a sort of young
nettle, being specialities. The prices are slightly cheaper than those
of the Hasselbacken.

Operakaellaren is a very good restaurant and one of the most popular.
They serve here a _dejeuner_ at 1 kr. 50 oere consisting of an excellent
dish of eggs (a speciality of the place) and meat and cheese or
so-called "sweet" (generally a very unwholesome stale cake with cream).
The _table-d'hote_ dinners are excellent, one being at 3 kr. 50 oere and
the other at 2 kr. 50 oere; the first consisting of soup (thick soups
being a speciality of the place), fish, entree, meat, and _releve_
(generally _hjaerpe_), with a _compote_ of Swedish berries called lingon
(a sort of cranberry)