oprietor is the Cav. Pasquale Cianfanelli, known even on the London
market for the excellence of his Tuscan wines.

The full Tuscan dinner does not follow in the order of fish, entree,
roast, _piece de resistance_, and game, but of boiled (_lesso_), fried
(_fritto_), stewed (_umido_) and roast (_arrosto_). The boiled may be
beef; the fried, sweetbread; the stewed, fish; the roast, pigeon; but
this order is always maintained, and the stranger's disappointment at
there being no fish after the soup has only been equalled by his
astonishment when it turns up in the fourth place. It is for this reason
that the Tuscan bill of fare proves such a puzzle to the stranger with
only a smattering of the language, for it is not made out under the
headings of fish, entrees, joint, etc., but of _lessi_, _fritti_,
_umidi_, and _arrosti_; and fish, for instance, will be found under all
four headings. Famous dishes at the Giappone are _Spaghetti a sugo di
carne_ (gravy sauce), _Risotto_ with white truffles, _Arselle_ (a small
shell-fish) _alla Marinara_, _Triglie_ (red mullet) _alla Livornese_,
_Fritto misto_ (mixed fry), _Controfiletto con Maccheroni_, etc. The
diner cannot do better than keep to the ordinary _vino da pasto_, and
end with the delicious _caffe espresso_ and a _Val d'Ema_ (Tuscan
Chartreuse), green or yellow. The best Tuscan mineral water is the
_Acqua Litiosa di S. Marco_ (from the province of Grosseto), and it
deserves more than a merely local fame. If the traveller's flask is not
already empty, let him try some of its contents with this water, and he
will have a pleasant surprise.

Another excellent restaurant in Leghorn is that attached to the Hotel
d'Angleterre-Campari, owned by Signori De-Stefani and Clerici, the
latter of whom was for a time in London, at the Albergo d'Italia. The
cuisine is North Italian and French, and the traveller not thoroughly
converted to the Tuscan table will find himself extremely well treated
at the Hotel Campari.

Rome

A man who loved strange experiments in eating, once asked me in Rome to
dine with him at a very cheap inn outside one of the gates, and he
explained how the dinner was arranged. He had found a hostel which did
not provide food, but if you bought a lamb from a shepherd outside the
gate, so as to save the _octroi_, you could have it cooked in a great
pot, a certain amount being charged for the cooking; and you bought your
wine, as a matter of course, at the inn. The ca