o Picciolo's.

The Cafe la Rosa is a typical haunt of the submerged tenth, with a
corrosive drink of its own.

There are not very many dishes distinctively Florentine. _Stracotto_,
braised beef with tomatoes, is one of them; and _Fegatini di pollo_,
giblets stewed in wine sauce, is another. The Tuscan fowls are
especially esteemed, and are roasted before a wood fire; and there is a
special Florentine salad of haricot beans generally served with caviar.
The figs, of many kinds, are delicious, and _Presciutto con fichi_,
fresh figs and ham, are eaten all over Tuscany. The chestnuts from the
Appenines are the best flavoured in Italy. Chianti is the local wine.

The Aurora is the restaurant to be patronised at Fiesoli. It has a
little garden whence there is a fine view.

Pisa

The Nettuno at Pisa is the old-fashioned Italian inn, and it used to be
the restaurant patronised by the officers of the garrison, but for some
reason they quarrelled with the proprietor and transferred their custom
to the other Italian restaurant and inn, the Cervia.

Pisa prides itself on its puddings and confectionary. The _Pattona_ and
_Castagnacci_, both _alla Pisana_, are puddings made of chestnut flour
and olive oil, and flavoured with fruit. _Schiacciata_ are Easter
cakes. In the afternoon, after a walk on the Lungarno, all the world of
Pisa goes to Bazzeli, the pastry-cook's shop, and there you may find the
elders of the town and the high officers of the garrison, talking over
affairs of State while they demolish many little cakes.

Leghorn

An Englishman who knows his Leghorn thoroughly, writes thus:--

The restaurant of the Albergo Giappone is one of the most famous
eating-houses in Tuscany. The kitchen is not merely Italian, it is
wholly Tuscan, and the Tuscan kitchen in skilful hands appears to
content both the gourmet and the gourmand. Affairs once brought a
distinguished English gourmet on a brief visit to Leghorn, and accident
(for its fame had not preceded him) took him to the Giappone. Instead of
staying three days, he stayed three weeks, so that he might ring all the
changes of that wonderful menu, and he has since publicly declared that
the kitchen of the Giappone is one of the finest in Europe. The English
visitor to Leghorn is a rarity, but all famous Italians have at some
time or other eaten at the Giappone--Crispi, Zanardelli, Cavallotti,
Benedetto Brin, Puccini, Mascagni, to mention only a few among many. The
pr