ulae in Apicius. It is
amusing to note how the author herein unconsciously
reveals what a poor literateur but what a fine cook he
is. This is characteristic of most good practitioners.
One may perfectly master the vast subject of cookery,
yet one may not be able to give a definition of even a
single term, let alone the ability to exactly describe
one of the many processes of cookery. Real poets often
are in the same predicament; none of them ever explained
the art satisfactorily.

[3] G.-V. add to the formula _callosiores reddes_--give
back [eliminate] the harder ones. This sentence belongs
to the next article. And Torinus, similar to
Humelbergius, renders this sentence _ut reddas ad gustum
calliores_--to render the harder ones palatable--the
squash and pumpkin namely--and we are inclined to agree
with him.

IV

[73] PUMPKIN, SQUASH
_CUCURBITAS_

TO HAVE THE HARDER ONES PALATABLE, DO THIS: [1] [Cut the fruit into
pieces, boil and] SQUEEZE THE WATER OUT OF THE BOILED FRUIT AND
ARRANGE [the pieces] IN A BAKING DISH. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CUMIN
AND SILPHIUM, THAT IS, A VERY LITTLE OF THE LASER ROOT AND A LITTLE
RUE, SEASON THIS WITH STOCK, MEASURE A LITTLE VINEGAR AND MIX IN A
LITTLE CONDENSED WINE, SO THAT IT CAN BE STRAINED [2] AND POUR THIS
LIQUID OVER THE FRUIT IN THE BAKING DISH; LET IT BOIL THREE TIMES,
RETIRE FROM THE FIRE AND SPRINKLE WITH VERY LITTLE GROUND PEPPER.

[1] Cf. note 3 to No. 72.

[2] List. _Ut coloretur_--to give it color; Tor. _ut ius
coletur_--from _colo_--to strain, to filter.

Cf. also note 2 to No. 55.

[74] PUMPKIN LIKE DASHEENS
_ALITER CUCURBITAS IURE COLOCASIORUM_ [1]

BOIL THE PUMPKIN IN WATER LIKE COLOCASIA; GRIND PEPPER, CUMIN AND RUE,
ADD VINEGAR AND MEASURE OUT THE BROTH IN A SAUCEPAN. THE PUMPKIN
PIECES [nicely cut] WATER PRESSED OUT [are arranged] IN A SAUCEPAN
WITH THE BROTH AND ARE FINISHED ON THE FIRE WHILE THE JUICE IS BEING
TIED WITH A LITTLE ROUX. BEFORE SERVING SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2].

[1] V. _Colocasia Antiquorum_ belonging to the dasheen
or taro family, a valuable tuber, again mentioned in No.
172, 216, 244 and 322. Cf. various notes, principally
that to No. 322. Also see U. S. Dept. of Agr. Farmer's
Bulletin No. 1396, p. 2. This is a "new" and
commercially and gastronomically important root
vegetable, the flavor reminding of a combin