dded is too
exotic to suit our modern taste, but without a question
is a nutritious dish and complete from a dietetic point
of view.

[2] Tor. _Superasperges_; G.-V. _piper asperges_.

X

[93] LEEKS
_PORROS_

WELL MATURED LEEKS [1] ARE BOILED WITH A PINCH OF SALT [2] IN
[combined] WATER AND OIL [3]. THEY ARE THEN STEWED IN OIL AND IN THE
BEST KIND OF BROTH, AND SERVED.

[1] Tor. _Poros bene maturos_; G.-V. _maturos fieri_.

[2] One of the rare instances where Apicius mentions
salt in cookery, i.e., salt in a dry form. _Pugnum
salis_--a fist of salt--he prescribes here. Usually it
is _liquamen_--broth, brine--he uses.

[3] Tor. is correct in finishing the sentence here.
G.-V. continue _et eximes._, which is the opening of the
next sentence, and it makes a difference in the formula.

[94] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK LEEKS
_ALITER PORROS_

WRAP THE LEEKS WELL IN CABBAGE LEAVES, HAVING FIRST COOKED THEM AS
DIRECTED ABOVE [1] AND THEN FINISH THEM IN THE ABOVE WAY.

[1] Tor. _in primis_--first; List., G.-V. _in
prunis_--hot embers.

[95] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER PORROS_

COOK THE LEEKS WITH [laurel] BERRIES [1], [and otherwise treat them]
AND SERVE AS ABOVE.

[1] Tor. _Porros in bacca coctos_; List. _in
cacabo_--cooked in a casserole; Sch. _bafa
embama_--steeped, marinated (in oil); G.-V. _in baca
coctos_. Another way to read this: _baca et fabae_--with
beans--is quite within reason. The following formula,
96, is perhaps only a variant of the above.

Brandt: with olives, referring to No. 91 as a precedent.

[96] LEEKS AND BEANS
_ALITER PORROS_

AFTER HAVING BOILED THE LEEKS IN WATER, [green string] BEANS WHICH
HAVE NOT YET BEEN PREPARED OTHERWISE, MAY BE BOILED [in the leek
water] [1] PRINCIPALLY ON ACCOUNT OF THE GOOD TASTE THEY WILL ACQUIRE;
AND MAY THEN BE SERVED WITH THE LEEKS.

[1] Apicius needed no modern science of nutrition to
remind him of the value of the mineral salts in
vegetables.

XI

[97] BEETS
_BETAS_

TO MAKE A DISH OF BEETS THAT WILL APPEAL TO YOUR TASTE [1] SLICE [the
beets, [2] with] LEEKS AND CRUSH CORIANDER AND CUMIN; ADD RAISIN WINE
[3], BOIL ALL DOWN TO PERFECTION: BIND IT, SERVE [the beets] SEPARATE
FROM THE BROTH, WITH OIL AND VINEGAR.

[1] Sentence in Tor.; wanting in List. _et al._

[2] List. No mention of beets is made in this formula;