PULTIBUS_ [2]

[178] JULIAN MEAL MUSH
_PULTES JULIANAE_ [3]

JULIAN PULSES ARE COOKED THUS: SOAK WELL-CLEANED SPELT, PUT IT ON THE
FIRE; WHEN COOKED, ADD OIL. IF IT THREATENS TO BECOME THICK, CAREFULLY
THIN IT DOWN. TAKE TWO COOKED BRAINS AND HALF A POUND OF MEAT GROUND
AS FOR FORCEMEAT, CRUSH THIS WITH THE BRAINS AND PUT IN A POT. CRUSH
PEPPER, LOVAGE AND FENNEL SEED, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, A LITTLE WINE
AND PUT IT ON TOP OF THE BRAIN AND MEAT. WHEN THIS FORCEMEAT IS HEATED
SUFFICIENTLY, MIX IT WITH THE SPELT [finish boiling] TRANSFER INTO
SERVICE DISH, THINNED. THIS MUST HAVE THE CONSISTENCY OF A HEAVY JUICE
[4].

[1] List. _Osprios_; G.-V. _Ospreon_--cookery of
leguminous plants.

[2] _Puls_--formerly a simple porridge of various kinds
of cereals or legumes, eaten by the Romans before bread
came into use. _Puls_ remained in use after the
introduction of bread only as a food of the poor. It was
also used at sacrifices. The _pultes_ and _pulticulae_
given by Apicius are illustrations of the ever-present
desire to improve--to glorify, as it were, a thing which
once was or still is of vital importance in the daily
life of humans. The _nouveaux-riches_ of the ancient and
the modern world cannot find it easy to separate
themselves from their traditions nor are they wont to
put up with their plainness, hence the fancy trimmings.
The development of the American pie is a curious analogy
in this respect. We see in this the intricate working of
human culture, its eternal strife for perfection. And
perfection is synonymous with decay. The fare of the
Carthusian monks, professed, stern vegetarians,
underwent the same tortuous evolution.

[3] Named for Didius Julianus, the emperor who was a
vegetarian. Of course, his majesty could not live on a
plain porridge, hence the Apician artistry. The _pultes_
were popular with the many professed vegetarians though
the obliging cooks mixed finely ground meat in this and
other porridges.

Our various cream soups and legume purees--those most
salubrious creations of modern cookery are no doubt
lineal descendants from the Apician _pultes_. They are
so scarce comparatively because they require all the
ingenuity and resourcefulness of a gifted cook to be
perfect.

[4] Dann. remarks that this formula is wanting in List.
Both Lister's first and