A realistic performance which is misunderstood--Concerning
a memorable drive--A fervent prayer

CHAPTER XX

We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje--A Montenegrin wake and its
consequences--A hero's death--Montenegrin conversation--Needless
appeals to the Deity--We visit the hospital

CHAPTER XXI

The Law Court in Cetinje--The Prince as patriarch--A typical
lawsuit--Pleasant hours with murderers--Our hostel--A Babel of
tongues--Our sojourn draws to a close--The farewell cup of coffee and
apostrophe

INDEX

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO _Frontispiece_

THE GRAF WURMBRAND, IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO

THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO

NJEGUSI

THE GUSLAR

MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY

THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG

THE PRINCE'S PALACE

GENERAL VIEW OF CETINJE

THE FEMALE PRISONERS

THE PRISONERS DANCING

THE VIZIER BRIDGE

GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA

THE RIBNICA

THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN

VOIVODA MARKO

SIMEON POPOVIC AND HIS CHAPEL

SPUZ

ACHMET UIKO

SOKOL BACO

THE POP OF VRANJINA

AN ALBANIAN GIRL

VIRPAZAR

ANTIVARI OR BAR

MARKO IVANKOVIC

THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA

VACCINATION

BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO

THE CONSULAR QUARTER, SCUTARI

KOLASIN--THE MARKET-PLACE

THE KOLO

A TYPICAL ROAD

THE MORACA MONASTERY

OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA

ANDRIJEVICA

CHURCH PARADE

VELIKA

MORINA

THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA

THE VASOJEYICKI KOM

ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVICA

THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS

THE PATH THROUGH THE VUCIPOTOK

AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBAC

MONTENEGRIN WOMEN

THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG

THE UPPER MONASTERY

THE CHURCH, NIKSIC

THE CHURCH AND THE PALACE

A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE

AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA

INTRODUCTION

"What a terrible country!" said a lady tourist to me once in Cetinje,
"nothing but barren grey rocks; and what poverty! I declare I shan't
breathe freely till I am out of it again."

This is a common opinion of travellers to Montenegro, and one that is
spread by them all over Europe. And yet how unjust! A fairly large
number of tourists take the drive from beautiful little Cattaro up
that wild mountain-side and through the barren Katunska to Cetinje. A
few hours later they return the way they came, convinced that they
have seen Montenegro. A few, very few, prolong the tour to Podgorica
and Niksic, returning with a still firmer conviction that they have
penetra