n began to make his
presence felt.

[Illustration: THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO]

The high road to Cetinje was built by the Austrians, and it is a
marvel of engineering skill, particularly the ascent of the almost
perpendicular wall of mountain rising abruptly from Cattaro. In series
of serpentines and gradients, which often permit the horses to trot,
the road winds up and up, every turn giving a still finer view of the
lake below. Cattaro remains in view practically the whole ascent. The
view from the top is magnificent and unsurpassed in Europe. The grand
bays look like miniature glass ponds, fringed with white toy villages,
and far away in the distance the deep blue Adria sparkles and glitters
in the sunshine.

Montenegro is entered some little distance from the top, but, as only
a row of paving stones indicates the spot, it is not till the carriage
dashes through a rocky gorge and out into the open Karst beyond that
the traveller realises that he has crossed the border. The sudden
change is startling, from the blue sea and green valleys to grey
masses of limestone rock and barren mountains. It is the Katunska, the
original stronghold of the Montenegrins, within which they defied all
comers.

At the first house, solidly built of stone, our carriage halted, and
the driver entered it, emerging with the revolver which he had to
relinquish on entering Austria. It is a formidable weapon specially
manufactured in Vienna for Montenegro, a foot and a half long, firing
an enormous cartridge. The revolver is always worn, by all classes
alike, and carried loaded by order. The upper classes carry a much
smaller and handier weapon, but a revolver must be carried by prince
and peasant alike.

Njegusi is the first town or village reached, and here an hour's rest
is always made. It is interesting, since it was once the temporary
capital, and as the home of the Petrovic family, the reigning dynasty.
It lies in a great hollow of fertile ground, and on the southern side
the historical Lovcen ascends. On the top the great prince and hero,
Peter II., is buried, and his mausoleum brings large numbers of
pilgrims yearly.

As our carriage drew up before the little hostelry, a crowd of boys
were standing in front of a house opposite, which is half telegraph
office and half school, for economy in buildings is practised in
Montenegro. They saluted us smartly in military fashion. The born
soldier is noticed at once, even in the small children