s, but as the social scale descends, so does the
position of woman.

In the lowest classes she is still not much more than a beast of
burden, given to man to ease his lot. She carries heavy burdens to
market, while her lord rides; she may not walk at his side, but a few
paces to the rear; neither may she sit at table in the presence of
strange men. The kiss with which men salute each other is not allowed
to her, and she must kiss the hand only of the man. Likewise, she must
rise to her feet when men pass by, and in some districts, should she
meet a man on the way, she must stop and remain standing meekly at the
side of the path; also, she must leave the room backwards. Neither of
these last-mentioned customs is universal, but are to be found largely
in the Brda.

The men are handsome and often of immense stature. Giants of 6 feet 8
inches are by no means uncommon; in fact, a few such men will be seen
in every town. The average height is quite 5 feet 10 or 11 inches,
broad-shouldered and deep-chested, with pleasant faces.

The women are often strikingly beautiful, especially when young, but
hard work ages them very quickly; in the upper classes, however,
middle-aged and elderly women of regal appearance can often be seen.
It is the manners of such women and universally of the men which comes
as the greatest surprise, when it is remembered that none or very few
have ever seen anything of the outside world.

The faults of the nation are inordinate vanity in their appearance,
causing them to impoverish themselves for the sake of gorgeous
clothes, and gambling. They gamble to an excessive degree, heaping
debt after debt upon their heads. Both these vices have caused an
active legislation. Gold embroidery has been abolished on the uniforms
of the army officers, and Prince Danilo has already declared that on
coming to the throne he will abolish the national costume altogether,
_i.e._ amongst the officials and the upper classes.

They love money and will do a good deal to get it, but when they have
money, they spend it in a reckless and freehanded manner. Thus they
will overcharge a stranger in an exorbitant fashion, thinking, in
their simple minds, that travellers are possessed of unlimited means.
Tourists are largely to blame for this, and pay, without audible
comment, what is asked. If a strong remonstrance is made, the charge
will be reduced in most cases. The dawn of civilisation has brought
the love of money, the fr