The costume consists of a "dzamadan," a red waistcoat, embroidered
with gold or black silk--the former on gala occasions--over which the
"gunj" is worn, a long, white or very pale blue coat, cut so that the
breast is left open and free. Another sleeveless jacket is worn,
again, over the gunj, called the "jelek," and is a mass of heavy gold
and silk embroidery, quite stiff in fact, and a marvel of beautiful
tracing and patterns.

Round the waist are three separate belts, the first a common belt,
then the leather "kolan" for the support of the weapons, and over all
a silk sash, the "pas," sometimes twenty yards long, wound round and
round many times and of brilliant colours.

Below, knee-breeches of dark blue material and voluminous proportions,
called "gace," bordered round the pockets with gold-work, and high,
patent-leather boots. This latter is merely modern dandyism; the still
invariably worn "dokoljenice" are white gaiters, fastened at the back
with hooks and eyes, which reach to the "opanki"--shoes made of a flat
leather sole, bound over with a thick network of whipcord.

The ordinary costume of the better classes for everyday wear (and this
is the uniform of the officers) is a short red jacket, embroidered
like the waistcoat in black silk, with sleeves carried either hussar
fashion, hanging behind, or over the sleeves of the waistcoat.

Then there are green gunj and even dark blue. The peasant wears
usually a coarse white serge gunj for every day and an ordinary shirt.

In the mountain districts and borderlands of the Brda the Albanian
costume of tight-fitting white serge trousers, bordered with black
braid, is largely worn.

The women wear a somewhat modified array of colour. The girls wear the
kapa, without the letters or rainbow; the married women a lace
mantilla over their shoulders. The hair is worn, in the case of the
married women, in a heavy crown-like plait.

A white, slightly embroidered bodice, silver girdle, and silk skirt,
over which is worn a similar open coat to the gunj. And again over
this comes the "jecerma," a jacket of red, blue, or violet velvet,
according to the age of the woman.

The effect in both men and women is tasteful and picturesque in the
extreme.

The struka, or shawl, is greatly worn by men, and the sweeping,
swinging effect is most pleasing. It is a shawl of sufficient length
that when folded to a narrow width and worn over the shoulders the
tassels just touch the gro