b is the
deep blue Adria, and which we must climb to reach the port of
Antivari. The lake is dotted at the near end with islands,
distinguishable amongst which is a conical-shaped hill crowned by a
fortress. That is Zabljak, the whilom capital of Crnagora, and home of
its ancient rulers, the Black Prince dynasty. The whole view is like a
map in bas-relief.

Gone now are the barren rocks and sparsely vegetated hills of the
Katunska, and we are now in the fertile middle zone of Mediterranean
vegetation, which includes the valley of the Zeta right up to Niksic.

As we careered along, we were closely followed by another carriage,
in which were crowded five Montenegrins and Albanians, who were
evidently bent on making the pace. The Montenegrins are ever reckless
drivers; they dash round sharp corners at full gallop, with a
precipice of several hundred feet below--and there is never sufficient
parapet to prevent a carriage dashing over--so that one involuntarily
leans to the inner side of the carriage with that uncomfortable
sinking feeling which can be experienced at sea. With a shout to warn
anybody coming up the hill, the driver cracks his whip and dashes
round each corner with a sublime indifference to danger.

Whenever we slackened, our pursuing carriage came up at a rush, and
its occupants emitted wild yells and vociferated polite requests to
pass. Off we tore again, and at last reached that point where the
descent begins in serpentines to Rijeka. When we were tearing along a
lower level of the road, but a few yards below our rivals, we noticed
with momentary misgivings that they had drawn their long revolvers and
were holding them in their hands.

Suddenly they began to fire, for no apparent reason, which habit is
apt to be startling to a nervous traveller on his first journey. But
our youthful driver let fly an answering shot; on inquiring he told us
that it was to encourage the horses. Afterwards we never rode or drove
any distance in the country without our revolvers, so that we too
might help in the encouragement.

That afternoon Rijeka presented a brilliant picture. On entering the
town hundreds of peasants were congregated round the cattle-market on
the outskirts, but it was on the broad street by the river bank that
the most animated scene was to be witnessed. Every Montenegrin town
should be seen on a market day, for then the peasants from far and
near, in their best clothes and rifles over their shoulder