sant friendships which we made in Montenegro.

The next day our newly-made friends showed us Podgorica. It is divided
into two distinct parts--the old, or Turkish town, and the new
Montenegrin town, which dates from the conquest of 1877. The two
halves are separated by the River Ribnica, which flows in a deep bed
before the crumbling walls of the Turkish quarter. At one angle of the
town the Ribnica enters the Moraca, Montenegro's biggest and most
important river.

Most picturesque is the old Turkish quarter, still surrounded by the
same bastions and walls which not so long ago defied the Montenegrin
army. But the houses, as well as the walls, are fast falling to ruin;
for at the order of the Prince the market has been removed to the
other side, and, in comparison with the new town, there are few
inhabitants left. The fortifications still bear witness to the fierce
struggle which took place before them, and one bastion was breached
more successfully than ever Montenegrin cannon had done, by lightning,
during the bombardment. Many of the older inhabitants, as well as the
walls, show traces of the former conflict, a noseless man being no
great curiosity.

Not for nothing has the Montenegrin won his fame as one of the
fiercest fighters in the world. He was never outdone in atrocities by
his enemies. It was the rule of war (and is now, to a great extent) to
either behead one's prisoner on the spot, or, if the day had been
exceptionally heavy, and more heads could not be carried conveniently,
noses were taken instead. Perhaps the phrase "to count noses"
originated in these lands. However, it usually ended the same, for the
noseless man would, as a rule, bleed to death; but some have lived
through it, and can be met with anywhere in Montenegro or Albania.

Many fierce fights took place in and about Podgorica, and the ghastly
picture of victorious Montenegrins at the conclusion of an affray,
sitting in groups, each with a small or large heap of heads and noses
before him, "counting the bag," has many eye-witnesses still living.

In the Turkish town lies the prison, soon to be the only one in
Montenegro. A new wing is rapidly nearing completion to accommodate
the female prisoners, who are at present incarcerated in Cetinje. We
visited the director that Easter Monday morning, and were received
unofficially in his quarters. We always had great fun with that man--a
pompous individual filled to overflowing with the importance