nje and Niksic, it is within market distance, so to speak, of
Kolasin and Andrijevica. From these districts, and from the Albanian
borders, the people flock in crowds, and the Podgorican market is by
far the most important in the country. But--and it is a big "but"--in
this case the Albanian frontier is only an hour's walk away, and it
would never do to risk the persons of the Royal Family and the
Ministers in a sudden Albanian raid, and troubles and disturbances are
of everyday occurrence.

We made Podgorica our headquarters during our sojourn in the land of
the Black Mountain mainly for its central position, but also for the
opportunity afforded us there for studying Montenegrin life.

It would be difficult to forget our first visit to the town. It was
Easter Sunday evening when we arrived at the Hotel Europa, and after
seeing our luggage carried in, started out on a tour of inspection,
and also to present our letter of introduction to Dr. S., the
veterinary surgeon of Montenegro. We had not got more than fifty yards
from the hotel when we were forced to beat a hasty and ignominious
retreat. At Eastertide, which is one of the biggest feasts in the
Greek Church, beggars, halt and maim, blind and tattered, pour into
all the larger towns of the country. They come from Turkey, Albania,
Bosnia, and Dalmatia--in fact, from everywhere within reach--and make
a rich harvest, for the Montenegrin opens his heart, his hand, and his
house at Easter. In our innocence we imagined this to be the normal
state of affairs in Montenegro, and were greatly cast down.

But our worthy host armed himself with a big stick, and we sallied
forth again under his guidance. Even then it was no joke, and the
house of Dr. S. came as a haven of refuge. Anyone who has been in the
East knows what an amount of persistency and endurance the Oriental
beggar possesses.

[Illustration: THE RIBNICA]

We were received as old friends and welcomed to the Easter table,
which was set, as in any other Montenegrin house at this season, for
anyone and everyone who has the remotest claims of acquaintanceship.

Several men were present, to whom we were at once introduced; amongst
others a canny Scotchman, the only Britisher living permanently in the
country. We were a cosmopolitan gathering. There was Dr. S., a
Roumanian, an Austrian ornithologist, a Scotchman, our innkeeper was a
Macedonian, and two or three Montenegrins. From that evening date many
of the plea