pe--The Crown Prince's birthday--We are ashamed

CHAPTER XII

Montenegro's oldest building--The ride to the Moraca Monastery--A
perilous bridge and ascent--The Abbot's tale--We inspect the
Monastery--The health of the King is drunk--The relative merits of
Boers and Montenegrins--The Abbot makes us presents--We visit a
peasant's house and a Homeric feast--A feu-de-joie--Departure from
Kolasin--We are mistaken for doctors again--Raskrsnica

CHAPTER XIII

A typical mountain hut--Costume of the north-eastern borderers--Supper
and a song--We go out hunting, and cause excitement--The Feast of
Honour--We ride to Andrijevica--Andrijevica and our inn--The
Voivoda--We go to church--Turkish visitors--Alarums

CHAPTER XIV

The Voivoda's invitation--Concerning an episode on our ride to
Velika--The fugitive from a blood-feud and his story--We arrive at
Velika--The men of Velika--The menu--Border jurisdiction--A
shooting-match--The Kom--Pleasant evenings--A young
philosopher--Sunset

CHAPTER XV

We leave Andrijevica--Our additional escort--The arrival at our
camping-place--In an enemy's country--The story of one Gjolic--Our
slumbers are disturbed--Sunrise on the Alps--We disappoint our
escort--"Albanian or Montenegrin?"--A reconnaissance--The Forest of
Vucipotok--The forbidden land--narrow escape--We arrive at
Rikavac--Rain damps our ardour--Nocturnal visitors

CHAPTER XVI

More memorial stones--We get wet again--Unwilling hosts--A fall--The
Franciscan of Zatrijebac--The ravine of the Zem--Methods of settling
tribal differences--A change of diet and more pleasant evenings--A
fatalist--Sunday morning

CHAPTER XVII

A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof--Keco's story--The laws
of vendetta and their incongruity--We return to Podgorica--The
Montenegrin telephone--An elopement causes excitement--The Sultan's
birthday--The reverse of the picture--A legal anomaly

CHAPTER XVIII

S. Vasili and Ostrog--Our drive thither--Joyful pilgrims--Varied
costumes--We meet the Vladika of Montenegro--The ordeal of hot
coffee--A real pilgrimage--The shrine of S. Vasili--The ancient
hermit--A miracle--Niksic--The gaudy cathedral and the Prince's
palace--We are disappointed at Niksic

CHAPTER XIX

The Club and its members--Gugga--Irregularities of time--The absence
of the gentle muse and our surprise--The musician's story and his
subsequent fate--The Black Earth--A typical border house--The ordeal
of infancy--