ted at the last moment. Then
Andrijevica was full of troops, for 25,000 Albanians stood fully armed
on the border, and a pistol-shot would have started an invasion of
Montenegro.

[Illustration: ANDRIJEVICA]

The little township is prettily situated on a slight eminence at the
junction of the Lim and the Perusica, the former a tributary of the
Danube. It has a population of five hundred clad in the white Albanian
dress, and is celebrated, rightly or wrongly, for the beauty of its
women. Certainly our landlady was a pretty enough looking woman of
most refined manners. The men are very fine-looking fellows. The
country all round is magnificent.

Our inn was also the town bakery, and we had a nice large bedroom well
stocked with flies, and real beds, though in daytime it was the dining
and drawing-room combined.

Really many of the inns we visited in Montenegro could be aptly
described by the song sung in London a few years ago of a coster
describing his home. He informed the audience that if they wanted to
see his library, his kitchen, or his best spare bedroom, "You just
stops where you is." In slightly more grammatical language, it could
be well applied to these hostels.

Towards evening we were taken and presented to Voivoda Lakic Voivodic,
who was sitting in semi-state before the house of a rival
drinking-place.

He had a remarkably strong face, and was of powerful build. Speedily
we were introduced to his adjutant, the town captain, and other
officials, and a great circle was formed of which we were the centre
of attraction. Our arms were brought out and examined with great glee
and appreciation; also our field-glasses came in for their usual share
of admiration, and our clothes were likewise carefully overhauled.

When we laughingly said that we hoped for some sport with the
Albanians and perhaps to shoot a few, our popularity was complete; our
backs were clapped, and a great scene of joy and enthusiasm took
place. Such remarks are liable to be taken rather literally in this
region.

We gave the Voivoda and his adjutant a dinner one evening, the best
that we could manage, though it certainly was not the kind of feast to
which one would ordinarily invite a Duke.

Being five of us, our table was not big enough, so we joined on a
second smaller and lower table at which the doctor and P. sat. P. put
a salt-cellar between the upper table and the lower, saying that as
they now sat "below the salt," they could