dly, and the path was constantly about two hundred feet above
the Lim. It requires care in the daytime, but in the uncertain light
of evening it was distinctly dangerous. Both horses were done up, and
Stephan lost his temper, and we saw him in his true colours, as
he kicked and beat his unlucky animal. It was not till I took very
energetic measures that he would stop, which amused the Voivoda
immensely.

[Illustration: MORINA]

[Illustration: THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA]

[Illustration: THE VASOJEVICKI KOM]

[Illustration: ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVICA]

P.'s horse was ill--in fact, it was his last journey. A few days
afterwards he died from inflammation of the lungs, contracted at
Velika that day.

We went for a few days' shooting on the Vasojevicki Kom, and were
handed over by the Voivoda to one called Vaso, a rich peasant of the
district. He swore to be answerable for our safety, with his head and
all that was his, and we lived with him for many days on the side of
the mighty mountain.

The shooting was not good, however; it was not the season, but
otherwise our stay was very pleasant. The grassy plateau was about
five thousand feet high and bitterly cold at night; below us, on
either side, stretched great beech forests, and the Kom rose abruptly
before us.

Our hut was large and roomy, but draughty to an extreme. At night the
icy wind whistled through its crevices, and we had to bury our heads
in blankets. The whole family shared it with us, and in one corner
stood an unwearied calf, too tender to brave the cold of the outside.

Those evenings which we spent round the fire are impossible to
describe adequately. Tired from a long day's tramping and sliding
through the forests, often wet to the skin from heavy showers, the
peace and warmth of that camp fire were delightful.

The shepherds came from far and near, and asked us many questions: if
we carried an apparatus for making banknotes (this is not meant as an
insult, but a common belief that Europeans can fabricate their
paper-money at will--a belief of which we had sadly to disillusionise
them); if our glasses could show us Belgrade, and so on--questions
sometimes so difficult to answer that we had to give them up. Then
they would talk of themselves; the older men would tell of past deeds,
of fighting and bloodshed, and the fitful glow of the fire would light
up their animated faces and picturesque costumes.

Great simple children they were,