ad, and kneeling, piously crossed
himself. The older men displayed even more reverence, and kissed
the earth. The younger men were much the same as their cultured and
civilised brothers, lounging through the service, half seated on a
wall, and barely crossing themselves.

But the general effect was one of great reverence and striking in the
extreme. We watched this strange congregation with great interest, and
during the most sacred part of the service, when all, even the blase
young men, prostrated themselves, the effect was unique.

Picture a cut-throat, shave half his head, leaving a tuft of hair on
the back by which he kindly assists his victor to decapitate him,
expecting a like consideration in return, long drooping moustachios,
clad in Turkish clothes, a belt full of cartridges, with revolver and
murderous-looking yataghan artistically displayed--of such was this
congregation. Men who half-an-hour afterwards would shoot an enemy in
the course of a vendetta, or otherwise, without any thought of
remorse. Yes, and coolly cut off his head and bring it home to his
admiring wife and daughters, now so discreetly and respectfully
kneeling behind them. This is not an over-drawn picture. It happens
often.

Of such consisted the congregation under the green trees, blue sky,
brilliant sunshine, in that perfect landscape this Sunday morning. And
of such is peopled a part of the vast country of Albania. A people
who hold human life as nothing--a reckless and brave nation of devout
Roman Catholics.

At the conclusion of the service we came in for a lot of inspection,
and going in to dine soon afterwards we chanced to look out of the
window overlooking the scene of the morning Mass. Still a great crowd
hung about, and on the late High Altar sat men smoking cigarettes.
After dinner we bade farewell to our young host, amidst honest regrets
on both sides. The Franciscan had given us a new insight into the
mysteries of life.

CHAPTER XVII

A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof--Keco's story--The laws
of Vendetta and their incongruity--We return to Podgorica--The
Montenegrin telephone--An elopement causes excitement--The Sultan's
birthday--The reverse of the picture--A legal anomaly.

"At Fundina," said Dr. S., "you will meet one of the modern heroes of
Montenegro. A man named Keco, whose fame has reached to the uttermost
ends of the land."

We had bidden farewell to our host and were riding past the last