l standing up boldly from the surrounding flat.

A long viaduct is crossed, built by the Russians, at the foot of the
mountain, for in the winter floods are common, and Niksic was at times
nearly cut off from the rest of Montenegro.

Niksic is probably the coming capital of Montenegro. In fact, it has
been but a question of money that has prevented the removal of the
Government from Cetinje a long time ago.

The Prince has recently built himself a large palace, the Russians
have erected a large church, and roads are now in the course of
construction connecting it with Risano on the Bocche di Cattaro, and
Cetinje, and again with the Cattaro-Cetinje road.

When these roads are completed, Niksic will have a most central
position, and the unquestionably rich and fertile plain can be opened
up. Without doubt it is the coming trading centre, and already it is
running Podgorica very close.

The day after our arrival--we had arrived in the night--we saw the
town under most unfavourable conditions. A violent thunderstorm had
raged incessantly for many hours, and the streets were in parts
inundated. Water was pouring in miniature waterfalls from the ground
floors of many houses which possessed a higher background. Braving the
elements, and often making detours to avoid the lakes, we walked to
the palace and the church. Both lie together outside the town.

A flight of steps lead up an artificial mound, over-shadowing the
somewhat barrack-like palace, where stands the new cathedral. It is
the most striking edifice in the whole country, surmounted with a
dingy light yellow cupola. It is not pretty or tasteful, but it is
distinctly imposing, and one can well realise the marvellings that
it has given the simple Montenegrins. Inside it is severely plain and
void of any furniture, except the thrones for the Royal Family. Round
the walls are lists of the men who have fallen in recent wars.

[Illustration: THE CHURCH, NIKSIC]

[Illustration: THE CHURCH AND PALACE]

The platform on which the church stands commands a view of the
country. The simplicity of Prince Nicolas' palace is thus accentuated,
for it is situated on perfectly open ground, and there is no garden or
any railings round it. Naked and forlorn, it gives the spectator a sad
impression of poverty. On another side is the old Church of Niksic,
ridiculously small and half-ruined. The Russians did a good deed, for
the comparison is absolutely absurd if a comparison can be