never left alone, though they let us ramble whither we wished.

Our dinner that day was a kind of feast of honour to the captain. The
lamb was served, as usual, whole. Half a dozen men joined us besides
our party. The doctor, P., and I had knives and forks and a plate
apiece.

"Help yourself to all you want at the beginning," said the doctor
kindly. "Take as much as you think you can possibly stow away."

We were glad afterwards that we had followed the doctor's advice, for
when we had finished helping ourselves the men fell upon that lamb and
rent it limb from limb with their horny hands. Montenegrins have not
pretty table manners. Forks are superfluous, a hunting-knife will do
for the bread, and spoons are only used for fluids, when they dip in
the common bowl.

That evening we went out shooting in another direction, and were amply
rewarded for an exceeding tiring climb, although deer were not
abundant. In fact, the moment that the shepherds take possession of
the mountains, game nearly always disappears, returning with the peace
and solitariness of the autumn.

On the following day we left Raskrsnica at an early hour _en route_
for Andrijevica, which lies at a considerably lower altitude than
Kolasin. Consequently we had a lot of downhill work. We had another
magnificent view of the Kom on our way, but otherwise our ride of
about six hours was uneventful. Andrijevica is first seen from a great
height, and really looks quite close.

"Half an hour," said our guides, "will see us in the town."

The descent was of a breakneck description, and had to be done on
foot. The heat was tremendous, and, the way proving to be an hour and
a half, our tempers suffered. It was about noon when we rode into the
little town or village, for it is nothing more, though the capital of
the Vasovic district, Montenegro's most eastern and consequently most
dangerous possession. It borders on Gusinje, the wildest and fiercest
of Albania's clans.

The office of the Governor, or Voivoda, to give him his proper
Montenegrin title, corresponding to our word Duke, is therefore no
sinecure. His position calls for more diplomacy and acumen than any
other in the country. A false move, a thoughtless action or word could
plunge the tribes of Northern Albania and Montenegro in a fierce
warfare. But a few weeks after our departure, war very nearly did
break out at Mokra, over a dispute as to the rights of a small
grazing-ground, and was only aver