age
of Korito, which Dr. S. knew, and where we intended spending the rest
of the day and night.

Half-way across, a sudden storm of rain and hail came down, and I have
never got wet through so quickly in my life. Within five minutes, the
water was running out of my boots. My leather coat, though waterproof,
let regular rivers down my neck. It was a rain that would not be
denied, and icy cold.

In that waterspout we sat and waited while Dr. S. hunted up his
friends; but apparently they had all left, with their flocks. A few
Albanians appeared, and by the dint of much persuasion Dr. S. induced
them to show us an empty hut. As soon as they had done this they left
us, looking at us in an unfriendly and suspicious manner. We got our
baggage in as quickly as possible, and by this time we were shivering
with cold. No wood could be seen, and Dr. S. again sallied forth, and
by the aid of small bribes some wood was brought and we soon had a
fire burning.

However, our natural buoyancy rose again with the fire, and we made a
very light meal off the food that we had with us. It was not more than
a few mouthfuls apiece, but nothing could be got here. Then we
solemnly stood round the fire and dried ourselves, the steam rising
like pillars of cloud, and hiding our figures from each other. The
warmth was very agreeable and comforting.

Several Albanians now crowded in, examining our arms, and were so
unfriendly, not to say threatening, that we hastily reconsidered our
plans. Firstly and foremostly, we had no food, watch would have to be
kept all the time, over the horses and at the hut, using up two men,
so the prospect was not pleasing.

So we saddled up and left about three for Zatrijebac, four hours'
distance, happy to be rid of our unwilling hosts.

The difference between the treatment of strangers by Albanians and
Montenegrins was very marked.[5]

Our path led us through the great wood of Kostice, and, owing to the
recent heavy rain, the track, never very plain, was in parts entirely
obliterated. Twice we lost ourselves, and once more a drenching shower
came on, repeating the morning douche. Still we plodded on with
stumbling horses over the slippery way till we emerged on the great
plain or plateau of Zatrijebac. Zatrijebac is an Albanian clan several
thousand strong who live under Montenegrin rule. They serve as
Montenegrin subjects in the army, give no trouble except in occasional
border fights with rival Albanian cla