of Montenegro, or
in Cattaro either.

We broke our fast here, and then drove for another mile or so where a
path leaves the road, and the pilgrim has either to proceed on
horseback or on foot. We had to go on foot, and a very long and tiring
walk it proved to be. Besides Dr. S. and his factotum, Lazo, we took
another man with us, a wretched puny individual, but seemingly
possessed of more endurance than any of us. He led us by a short cut
over rocks, and up slippery breakneck walls of cliffs, over which our
guide skipped nimbly, and having reached the top seemingly hours
before us, sat down and beamed benevolently.

Half-way, the rain came down in sheets, and we took shelter in a
wayside inn, or rather hut. It was crowded with returning pilgrims
whom the threatening weather had forced to depart earlier than is
their wont.

As the weather momentarily cleared, we pushed on, and the remaining
distance was one of the most interesting walks it had been our fortune
to witness. A ceaseless stream of pilgrims poured down the rocky path.
It came on to rain again, but one and all wished us luck in the name
of God and S. Vasili. Nearly every costume of the Balkans was
represented. The Bosnian, in sack-shaped baggy trousers, fitting the
lower leg, either of crimson or blue cloth, a smart-coloured Turkish
jacket, a broad shawl round his waist displaying armouries of knives
and pistols, on his head a fez wound round with a huge turban cloth,
mounted, or leading a pack-horse; his wife in coarse black trousers;
the Hercegovinans, with breastplates of silver ornaments, exquisite in
workmanship and of great antiquity; sombre Servians, and white-clad
Albanians, whose trousers are embroidered with black braid in
fantastic tracing; fez, head-cloth, and neat little Montenegrin cap;
trousers of red, pink, blue and black; gigantic Albanians in high
riding-boots, sitting their horses like Life Guardsmen; Macedonians,
Greeks, and even pure-blooded Turks; Montenegrins in creamy white
frock-coats worn over gold-braided crimson jackets; and dark-blue
costumes with red worsted tassels of the poor Dalmatian peasants--all
passed us in bewildering confusion.

The women (who were for the most part Montenegrin) showed up well in
comparison with their sisters from Sarajevo, whose attire is, to say
the least, comical. For in the larger towns of the Austrian occupation
territory they are undergoing the stage from East to West, and appear
in huge Turki