the annual migration to the hills, the district is
comparatively safe. The Albanians do not attack large parties, but
rather stragglers, as larger numbers have an unpleasant habit of
organising themselves into avenging bands to repay the visit with
interest.

Not a soul was to be seen anywhere, not a living being of any
description. In a shower of pelting rain we took possession of the
largest hut. It is decidedly annoying to get thoroughly wet at the end
of a long day, and the prospect of a night in damp clothes was in no
way pleasing. The hut was damp and cold, and it had the chilly feeling
which only comes from a long period of emptiness, and strikes to the
marrow. But our men turned to with a will, cleaning out the hut,
strewing it with very wet rushes, and piling up a big log-fire in the
middle. We were pretty hungry, too, a couple of eggs at six a.m. and a
few strawberries at midday are not much to go on, and we had been in
the saddle for over ten hours. Stephan had brought amongst other
things some raw bacon, which he gave me, but, hungry as I was, I could
not face that. Later on, a happy thought struck me, and I went and
toasted it over the fire. I do not recollect ever relishing food so
much in my life. About a couple of hours later a lamb had been
roasted, and we were able to make a decent meal.

It was getting rapidly dark now, and watch had to be kept outside. The
horses were picketed close at hand for fear of wolves, as well as
Albanians. By the time that we had finished eating, night was upon us.
It was pitch dark and no moon. Rather reluctantly I turned out to do
my share of sentry-go in the bitter cold. But it was decidedly
interesting, as one of our party began to tell stories of the usual
blood-curdling nature. On emerging from the hut, I thoughtlessly
remained standing for a few seconds in the low doorway which, as the
fire was blazing brightly inside, showed up my figure strongly against
the surrounding gloom. Before I knew where I was I was roughly seized
by a man and thrown forcibly into the darkness. He intimated that I
must be a fool to court death in that manner. For all we knew, he
said, a dozen Albanians might be hiding around us and waiting for such
an easy shot. And when I was not allowed to smoke, I realised that we
were in an enemy's country.

Watch was kept all night by two men, one sitting on the roof, or on an
elevation which commanded it, and the other patrolling round with a
sharp